查看更多>>摘要：Abstract Background Sensitive skin is a common condition of hyper-reactivity to external stimuli, e.g. heat or abrasion. The symptoms are subjective but can be measured using validated emotional and technical methods. Avene water has several beneficial effects on the skin. In vitro studies indicated that the active component of this natural spring water, Aquaphilus dolomiae extract-G3 (ADE-G3), modulates cutaneous sensitivity via an anaesthetic-like mechanism. Objectives To assess facial skin reactivity after repeated application of two formulations containing ADE-G3. Methods In open-label studies, healthy subjects with sensitive facial skin applied cream or balm twice daily for 84 days. The severity of skin sensitivity was measured using the Sensitive Scale (based on quantifying visible or subjective signs). Subjective responses associated with pain or uncomfortable feeling were assessed by measuring electroder-mal response (EDR). This involves measuring variations in skin electrical resistance due to non-conscious physiological changes in activity of the sympathetic nervous system. Subjects were also evaluated for beneficial effects according to a quantitative approach using semantic assessment of a question regarding their skin quality. Evaluations were performed before and after the first application, and after 29/30, 56 and 84 days of twice daily use. Results There was a significant decrease in the EDR after stimuli immediately after the application of both ADE-G3 formulations, which continued to decrease over 84 days (40-50% decrease by D85). Likewise, all physical and functional signs of the Sensitive Scale were significantly decreased immediately after the first application and at all time points tested after treatment. Verbatim analysis revealed a semantic shift, from mainly negative terms on D1 to mainly positive terms at D85 for both tested products. Conclusions These results demonstrated that two formulations containing ADE-G3 reduced skin sensitivity, indicating a decreased activation of the sympathetic nervous system associated with this condition.
查看更多>>摘要：Abstract Background We have developed innovative base formulations that were designed to mimic the skin with respect to its components and galenic structure. Components include water, proteins, lipids, sugars and minerals. Objectives We characterized formulations and their skin penetration using in vitro methods and evaluated their impact on skin hydration in a clinical trial. Methods Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) imaging and X-ray diffraction were used to analyse formulations as well as formulation impact on the stratum corneum (SC) structure. Mass spectrometry imaging (MSI) was used to compare formulation ingredients with SC components and to detect their distribution in the skin. Clinical studies were performed to confirm effects on skin hydration and investigate potential adverse skin effects (irritation and sensitization). Results SEM and X-ray diffraction of the formulations showed that lipids were organized in sheets similar to SC lipids. MSI demonstrated similarities between formulation components and skin constituents, as well as a good penetration into the skin. The formulations did not modify the lamellar organization of the SC lipids, but they increased the relative proportion of the crystallized lipids and some of the amorphous lipids. In in vivo studies, a high level of hydration was maintained over 24 h after application with an intense and 'very good hydration'. Both formulations were shown to be non-(photo)sensitizers with excellent tolerance. Sensorial evaluation indicated the formulations were not oily or sticky and maintained the skin's suppleness overtime. Formulations had a 'nude skin' touch and created a natural protective film. Conclusions The two formulations were well-tolerated and increased skin hydration in clinical subjects, an effect that could contribute to the alleviation of sensitive skin. The formulations were shown to resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum, as well as penetrate the skin without disrupting the lipid lamella organization.
NSTL
Wiley