首页期刊导航|International journal of clothing science and technology
期刊信息/Journal information
International journal of clothing science and technology
Emerald
International journal of clothing science and technology

Emerald

0955-6222

International journal of clothing science and technology/Journal International journal of clothing science and technologyISTPSCI
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    The principal component analysis method to study mechanical properties and denim manufactured garment shrinkage

    Faouzi KhedherBoubaker Jaouachi
    387-401页
    查看更多>>摘要：Purpose The purpose of this work is to study the relationship between the fabric’s mechanical properties such as tear strength (TS), breaking strength (BS) and cloth’s dimensional stability (Sh), particularly, after industrial launderings (stone wash, enzyme wash, mixed wash and rinse). Hence, we select the most interrelationships using the principal component analysis (PCA) technique. In this study, the treatments of finishing garments during washing are the important parameters influencing the cloth’s dimensional and the fabric’s mechanical properties. To improve the obtained results, the selected significant inputs are also analyzed within their influence on shrinkage. The polynomial regression model relating the tear strength and the shrinkage of denim fabric proves the effectiveness of the PCA method and the obtained findings.Design/methodology/approach To investigate the matter, the type of washing, and their contributions to shrinkage, four types of fabrics manufactured into pants were used. These fabrics differ not only by their basis weights (medium and heavy weight fabrics) but, also by their compositions (within and without elastane) and their thread count (warp and weft yarn count, twist and density. To evaluate significant results, a factorial design analysis based on an experimental design was established. The choice of these treatments, as well as their design mode, led us to make a complete factorial experimental design.Findings According to the results, the prediction of shrinkage behavior as a function of the process washing input parameters seems significant and useful in our experimental design of interest. As a consequence, it was also concluded that after these input parameters, we can find the relationship between the shrinkage (Shwarp and Shweft) and the mechanical properties such as tear strength (TSwarp and TSweft) and breaking strength (BSwarp and BSweft). Thanks to the PCA, it is very easy to reduce the number of the influent output parameters, and knowing these significant parameters, the prediction of mechanical properties knowing the shrinkage of denim garment, during the process of washing seems successful and can undoubtedly help industrial to minimize the poor workmanship of the finishing quality.Practical implications This study is very interesting for finishing denim garments. The shrinkage is very important for correcting measures in sewing, considering that a high shrinkage may cause the cancellation of the fit from the client. This type of defect cannot be repaired in the major part of the cases and causes a big loss for the company, moreover the mechanical properties. For this reason, analyzing the value of shrinkage before starting the production cycle is of great importance to apply the right balance to the pattern. The model of predicting the mechanical properties behaviors as a function of the shrinkage denim garment leads manufacturers to eliminate the test of mechanical properties that remain as destructive tests. Moreover, according to the results obtained, it may be concluded that prediction is still accurate through the shrinkage test which is an inevitable test. Even though, these results can bring a huge gain for the garment wash industries.Originality/value This work presents the first study predicting a relationship between the mechanical properties and denim garment shrinkage, applying the PCA technique to minimize the all-output parameters that are not significant or correlated with each other. Besides, it deals with the relationship developed between the fabric’s mechanical properties such as tear strength (TS), breaking strength (BS) and cloth’s dimensional stability (Sh), particularly, after industrial launderings (stone wash, enzyme wash, mixed wash and rinse). Moreover, it is notable to mention that the originality of this study is to let to the garment wash industries to save in production time of orders and also in quality.
      原文链接:
    • NETL
    • NSTL
    • Emerald Group Publishing

    Cloth-net: improved hybrid adversarial network with dense vision transformer for 2D-3D image classification for accurate cloth recommendation engine

    Akanksha MrinaliPankaj Gupta
    402-442页
    查看更多>>摘要：Purpose The aim of this study is to enhance the performance of cloth recommendation systems by proposing a hybrid adversarial network called Cloth-Net, which integrates Dense Vision Transformers for effective 2D-3D image classification.Design/methodology/approach Cloth-Net combines the strengths of adversarial networks with Dense Vision Transformers to process both 2D and 3D images for improved classification. The model was trained on a large-scale dataset of clothing images, using a hybrid adversarial approach that enhances both feature extraction and image classification accuracy. The methodology also includes data augmentation and transfer learning techniques to optimize the model’s generalization capability.Findings Experimental results demonstrate that Cloth-Net significantly outperforms traditional convolutional neural network-based methods in terms of accuracy, precision, and recommendation quality. The hybrid adversarial framework, together with Dense Vision Transformers, enables the model to better understand complex clothing images, leading to more accurate and personalized recommendations.Originality/value This study introduces a novel hybrid adversarial model, Cloth-Net, that uniquely combines Dense Vision Transformers with traditional adversarial networks for the first time in the context of 2D-3D image classification. The findings present a substantial improvement in the performance of cloth recommendation engines, making the proposed model valuable for both academic research and practical applications in fashion technology.
      原文链接:
    • NETL
    • NSTL
    • Emerald Group Publishing

    Development of functional jackets for reducing workload and boosting muscle strength

    Sunhee ParkYejin Lee
    443-457页
    查看更多>>摘要：Purpose This study evaluated the effect of functional jackets designed to reduce the workload on the upper extremities and boost the muscle strength of workers from prolonged repetitive work.Design/methodology/approach The functional jacket designs for the upper limb incorporated a dynamic taping line with an elastic band, three-dimensional support for the abdomen and posterior waist (S2) and an X-shaped line on the scapular region combined with abdominal and posterior waist support (S3). Clothing pressure was adjusted ergonomically for different areas. A standard jacket served as the control (S1). The designs were evaluated based on work posture, electromyography and subjective sensation.Findings S2 and S3 effectively reduced the workload on the upper extremities by decreasing the trapezius muscle, shoulders and waist movement. S3 showed a low muscle-activation level on electromyogram analysis and was excellent in subjective sensation.Originality/value A functional jacket with optimal compression applied differentially to the upper extremities, with three-dimensional abdominal and posterior waist support and an X-shaped line on the scapula region, can reduce the workload on the upper extremities and boost the core muscle strength to improve work performance.
      原文链接:
    • NETL
    • NSTL
    • Emerald Group Publishing

    Forecasting customer behaviors for new fashion product development: a decision support system

    Nhu Ngoc Phan HaThi Kim Hue TrinhSong Thanh Quynh Le
    458-479页
    查看更多>>摘要：Purpose In the fashion industry, the new product development process is considered as a powerful tool that supports companies to survive and achieve greater success in dynamic markets. This study aims to create a predictive model that utilizes data mining techniques to identify the factors that influence customer behavior and estimate their clothing purchase preferences in this process.Design/methodology/approach This paper first determined the relationship between the product’s material and prices based on customers’ viewpoints through the K-means clustering technique. In the next step, customers’ preferences were measured through these fashion product’s attributes including colors, forms, styles and patterns by Conjoint analysis.Findings By collecting and analyzing data from markets and customers, reliable suggestions were proposed for designing garments that satisfy customers’ demands and raise company profits. These results from the forecasting model could support managers in making the best decisions, being time efficient and saving costs during the new product development process.Originality/value This study describes a new understanding of the elements influencing consumers’ behavior that are connected to fashion products. The incorporation of market data and scientific knowledge will improve the success of the new product development process.
      原文链接:
    • NETL
    • NSTL
    • Emerald Group Publishing

    Exploring the dyeability and sustainability of lac dye on cotton: a comparative analysis between water and supercritical CO2 dyeing

    Christiana AgboSatoko Okubayashi
    480-494页
    查看更多>>摘要：Purpose The textile industry has been seeking sustainable dyeing methods to minimize environmental impact. This study addresses this need by assessing the use of supercritical carbon dioxide (scCO2) dyeing for applying lac dye to cotton fabrics. A comparison with the water dyeing method was made with the primary objective of evaluating the dyeing performance.Design/methodology/approach Dyeing of cotton with lac dye was carried out by water dyeing and the supercritical carbon dioxide (scCO2) dyeing methods incorporating pretreatments and mordanting such as polyethylene glycol 400 (PEG), aluminum acetate (A.A), tannic acid (T.A) and benzamide. The dyeing performance of lac dye on cotton fabrics for both methods as well as mechanical properties were evaluated.Findings This study showed differences in color yield, fastness properties and dyeing efficiency between both methods. Supercritical CO2 showed significantly higher color strength (K/S), uniformity and fastness properties to water dyeing. The K/S values of the water-dyed samples were between 1.10 and 1.76. However, the K/S of scCO2 dyed samples increased from 0.85 to 4.26 when pre-treated with PEG. Also, the use of Aluminum Acetate (A.A) as a mordant gave the highest K/S of 6.35.Originality/value The dyeing of natural fibers, especially cotton, has faced difficulties, especially with the use of natural dyes. In this study, the use of mordants in the dyeing process aids in improving the dyeability of cotton, especially in scCO2 dyeing. This study compares traditional aqueous and scCO2 dyeing methods for lac dye on cotton, focusing on sustainability and dyeability.
      原文链接:
    • NETL
    • NSTL
    • Emerald Group Publishing

    Fashion-tile: a tiled clothing image generation model based on improved conditional generative adversarial network

    Meihua GuYalu ChuXiaoxiao Dong
    495-516页
    查看更多>>摘要：Purpose Clothing retrieval and matching tasks require the use of model clothing images as input. Due to the limitation of shooting postures and angles, direct using of model images for clothing retrieval or matching often faces many challenges. In view of this, this paper aims to propose a novel tiled clothing image generation model based on improved conditional generative adversarial network (GAN) that can generate clear and accurate tiled clothing images from selected model images.Design/methodology/approach Aiming at the problems of local information loss and overall structure inaccuracy in tile clothing image generation, this paper optimizes pix2pixHD network model from three aspects: using spatial transformer network (STN) for spatial invariance optimization, using atrous spatial pyramid pooling (ASPP) for feature extraction optimization, using self-attention (SA) for global context information acquisition optimization. The improved network model is called fashion-tile, which can improve the quality and fidelity of tile clothing image generation.Findings The experimental results show that the proposed method is obviously superior to the existing methods not only in the evaluation metrics, but also in the generating clothing image quality and fidelity. The peak signal-to-noise ratio (PSNR) value is increased by at least 6.6%, the structural similarity (SSIM) value is increased by at least 2.1%, and the Fréchet inception distance (FID) value is reduced by at least 8.6% on the person2cloth dataset.Practical implications This work generates high-quality tiled clothing images that enhance the preservation of clothing details and structures, providing consumers with a clearer and more realistic visual experience, thereby increasing shopping satisfaction and purchase intention. With continuous technological advancements and deeper application, the proposed method is expected to play a greater role in the future of clothing e-commerce, offering consumers a richer and more authentic shopping experience.Originality/value The proposed method provides an effective solution for generating tiled clothing from model images, which will help to improve the accuracy of subsequent clothing retrieval and matching, and help to enhance the consumers shopping experience and effectively promote sales.
      原文链接:
    • NETL
    • NSTL
    • Emerald Group Publishing

    Development of a reference database on historical body sizing and digital twins

    Aleksei MoskvinMariia MoskvinaVictor Kuzmichev
    517-539页
    查看更多>>摘要：Purpose Historical body sizing systems are widely used in reconstructions to reproduce the shape of the human body. However, the systems are less informative than modern standards. The article aims to present a framework for processing historical sizing systems and to generalize 19th century adult female body sizes within one reference anthropometric database.Design/methodology/approach The study adapted historical data on body sizing to the modern methodology of creating sizing systems. It systematized 248 typical sizes from 33 sources published in North America between 1875 and 1918. The common body measurements were examined by means of correlation analysis. The data was used to introduce new key dimensions and body sizes. Regression models for calculating secondary dimensions were established. A parametric modelling software program was used to generate avatars in accordance with the developed database.Findings The developed database presents 111 typical body sizes divided into five constitution and three height groups. The new database agrees with historical body sizes published in Europe. The differences between the developed database and modern standards were confirmed to be in line with changes in the shape of the body during the 19th and the 20th century.Originality/value The study provides historical reconstructions and exhibitions with a reliable and comprehensive source of anthropometric data, as well as a diverse range of virtual mannequins.
      原文链接:
    • NETL
    • NSTL
    • Emerald Group Publishing

    Development of garment design system using random polygon pattern generator

    Jihyun OhSungmin Kim
    540-556页
    查看更多>>摘要：Purpose This study aims to develop a random polygon garment pattern generator and a drape simulation system to automate the garment design process.Design/methodology/approach Garments were categorized into four groups based on the geometric features of the human body. Garment patterns in each group consisted of basic points, and the patterns were automatically placed, sewn and simulated around the body in three-dimensional space. Additional pattern manipulation functions were developed to modify the shapes of patterns by adding darts and cuts, either manually or randomly.Findings Users can produce new designs they had not considered before using the random manipulation functions. Since the three-dimensional simulation process is automated, users can focus solely on the design process.Research limitations/implications Garments composed of multiple layers were not considered.Originality/value This system differs from existing clothing computer-aided design systems in that even users lacking prior knowledge of garment design can generate various examples. It can help users understand the relationship between 2D patterns and 3D garments without the need for a pattern drafting process.
      原文链接:
    • NETL
    • NSTL
    • Emerald Group Publishing

    Influence of sports bra parameters on vertical breast movement using three-dimensional-printed manikin evaluation method

    Mingjie WuLian ZengHaiyu DongXiaona Chen...
    557-572页
    查看更多>>摘要：Purpose Sports bras can effectively reduce breast displacement, alleviate breast pain and protect the breast. Different bra components have different effects on breast support. This study aims to explore the quantitative relationship between bra components and vibration reduction function.Design/methodology/approach To understand the effects of different bra component parameters on breast support, 30 sports bras were fabricated with precise component parameters. The dynamic vertical breast displacement when wearing each sports bra was monitored using motion capture technology. The breast displacement data from five breast positions was used to analyze the overall vertical displacement of the breast. To address variability due to differences in human anatomy, the experiments were conducted on a custom-made manikin prepared using three-dimensional printing.Findings Compared with bare breasts, breasts supported by bras made with high-elastic-modulus cup materials, high-elastic-modulus shoulder strap materials and polyester underbands exhibited reduced vertical displacement during physical activity. Structurally, bras with higher cup heights, shorter strap lengths and smaller underband circumferences were associated with reduced overall breast displacement during physical activity.Originality/value By systematically studying the effects of different bra components on breast support, this study provides valuable insight and recommendations for the design and materials selection of sports bras.
      原文链接:
    • NETL
    • NSTL
    • Emerald Group Publishing

    Study on the pressure comfort of elbow guards for older women based on numerical analysis and experimental methods

    Ke-Ke SunTian-tian XuYin-hong YaoMiao-miao Kang...
    573-603页
    查看更多>>摘要：Purpose This study aims to provide three biomechanical models that are consistent with the arm forces of elderly women and to design elbow guards that are more suitable for their use. Numerical analysis and experimental methods were used to determine the optimal direction for elbow guard design, focusing on fabric type, arm force distribution and comfort thresholds.Design/methodology/approach This paper explores the design of elbow guards for older women through predictive finite element modeling and a systematic experimental approach. First, contact anthropometry was used to measure the arm dimensions of older women. Cluster analysis was applied to categorize arm sizes, laying the foundation for the subsequent selection of subjects for 3D scanning. Second, a 3D scanner was used to obtain the external contours of a representative subject’s arm. Finite element models of the arm and elbow guard were constructed with the arm flexed at three different angles. These models were used to simulate the pressure exerted by the elbow guard on the arm. Next, objective measurements of garment pressure were taken using a homemade elbow guard. Finally, subjective comfort evaluation was carried out using the human clothing experiment method. Comfortable pressure thresholds were determined by establishing a correlation between subjective comfort levels and objective pressure values.Findings The results showed that the developed model effectively predicted the pressure distribution between the elbow guard and the arm. By comparing the simulated pressure distributions of the four materials, it was determined that polyamide and spandex fabrics were the more appropriate materials for the elbow pad design. Additionally, the study pointed out the need to consider the different bending postures of the arm when analyzing pressure, focusing on the amount of pressure control at the elbow of the arm. When the arm’s bending angle ranges between 90° and 180°, the total pressure should remain between a minimum of 2550.0 Pa and a maximum of 4394.4 Pa.Originality/value The theoretical approach of ellipses was used to construct the arm model. Numerical simulations were performed to analyze the pressure distribution for three different arm bending postures, and the simulation results provided useful insights for designers in selecting the optimal fabric type. This study provides a theoretical reference for designing comfortable compression elbow guards, while also addressing garment comfort by establishing accurate garment comfort thresholds to guide designers in understanding the appropriate compression dosage.Highlights (1)The theory related to ellipses is introduced in the construction of the model, unlike other studies.(2)The laws of fabric material, force area and bending angle on pressure distribution were analyzed.(3)Clothing pressure comfort thresholds were determined for three different postures.
      原文链接:
    • NETL
    • NSTL
    • Emerald Group Publishing