首页期刊导航|International journal of clothing science and technology
期刊信息/Journal information
International journal of clothing science and technology
Emerald
International journal of clothing science and technology

Emerald

0955-6222

International journal of clothing science and technology/Journal International journal of clothing science and technologyISTPSCI
正式出版
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    The effect of repeated laundering on the softness and smoothness of terry-cloth towels using a sound spectrum analysis

    Blaisdell, Maruska Giselle SalvatierraYun, Changsang
    1-12页
    查看更多>>摘要：Purpose This study aims to examine the effect of laundering on the softness and smoothness of terry-cloth towels by different washing machine type, washing temperature, drying method and the use of fabric softener, using a newly developed sound spectrum analysis known as Textile Softness Analyzer. Design/methodology/approach The experiment was designed to analyze the most significant laundering parameter in the reduction of softness and smoothness of terry cloth during one laundering cycle up to ten cycles by testing samples using TSA machine. Findings A front-loading washer had a significant effect on reducing softness and smoothness in comparison to a top-loading machine; line-drying resulted in a higher decrease in softness and smoothness than tumble-drying. Washing temperature showed no significant effect, and the use of softener during washing was able to reduce the negative effect of line-drying on the softness and smoothness of terry cloth. Originality/value This paper provided information on the laundering parameters that can maintain the softness and smoothness of terry-cloth towels, and this was examined with sound spectrum analysis to measure softness and smoothness of textiles.
      原文链接:
    • NETL
    • NSTL
    • Emerald Group Publishing

    An identification method of cashmere and wool by the two features fusion

    Zhu, YaolinHuang, JiayiWu, TongRen, Xueqin...
    13-20页
    查看更多>>摘要：Purpose The purpose of this paper is to select the optimal feature parameters to further improve the identification accuracy of cashmere and wool. Design/methodology/approach To increase the accuracy, the authors put forward a method selecting optimal parameters based on the fusion of morphological feature and texture feature. The first step is to acquire the fiber diameter measured by the central axis algorithm. The second step is to acquire the optimal texture feature parameters. This step is mainly achieved by using the variance of secondary statistics of these two texture features to get four statistics and then finding the impact factors of gray level co-occurrence matrix relying on the relationship between the secondary statistic values and the pixel pitch. Finally, the five-dimensional feature vectors extracted from the sample image are fed into the fisher classifier. Findings The improvement of identification accuracy can be achieved by determining the optimal feature parameters and fusing two texture features. The average identification accuracy is 96.713% in this paper, which is very helpful to improve the efficiency of detector in the textile industry. Originality/value In this paper, a novel identification method which extracts the optimal feature parameter is proposed.
      原文链接:
    • NETL
    • NSTL
    • Emerald Group Publishing

    The pattern design of fabrics produced by three-channel rotor-spun colorful melange yarn

    Pan, BoYang, Xiao YiYang, Rui Hua
    21-28页
    查看更多>>摘要：Purpose The purpose of this article is to design and make fabrics with colorful melange yarns spun by a three-channel rotor spinning machine. Design/methodology/approach The three-channel digital rotor-spun machine controls the blending proportion by adjusting the feeding of three-primary color fiber slivers online, so that a piece of colorful yarn presents a variety of colors along the longitudinal direction where constant yarn linear density can be produced flexibly. Various fabric patterns can be produced by three-channel rotor-spun colorful melange yarn with different periods of color. Findings The fabric, made by the rotor-spun colorful melange yarn, is rich in color, clear in layers, soft in the hand and has a hazy three-dimensional effect. The product is environmentally friendly and saves energy. Originality/value An innovative idea to develop various colorful fabrics is proposed by combining their pattern with colorful melange yarn produced by a three-channel rotor spinning machine.
      原文链接:
    • NETL
    • NSTL
    • Emerald Group Publishing

    Computer vision-based color sorting for waste textile recycling

    Zhou, JieZou, XingxingWong, Wai Keung
    29-40页
    查看更多>>摘要：Purpose Efficient and high-accuracy intelligent color and material sorting systems are the main bottlenecks restricting the recycling of waste textiles. The mixing of waste textiles with different colors will make the reconstructed raw material of textile fiber useless or with low quality. In this study, some challenges about the automatic color sorting for waste textile recycling are discussed. A computer vision-based color sorting system for waste textile recycling is introduced, which can classify the required colors well and meet the efficiency requirements of an automatic recycling line. Design/methodology/approach There are four aspects, (1) two cameras with different exposure times and white-balance parameters are involved for establishing the computer vision system. (2) Two standard color databases with two cameras are constructed. (3) A statistical model to determine the colors of textile samples is presented in which uniform sampling of pixels and mid-tone enhancing techniques are exploited. (4) The experiments with a number of waste textile samples from a factory in Hong Kong are conducted to illustrate the efficiency of the developed system. Findings The experiments with a number of waste textile samples from a factory in Hong Kong are reported. The total classification accuracy performs good. The research methods and results reported in this study can provide an important reference for improving the intelligent level of color sorting for waste textile recycling. Originality/value It is the first time to introduce computer vision technology to a color sorting system for recycling waste textiles, especially in a real recycling factory in Hong Kong. The research methods and results reported in this study also deliver guidance for designing a computer vision-based color sorting system for other industrial scenarios.
      原文链接:
    • NETL
    • NSTL
    • Emerald Group Publishing

    The chameleonic garment integrated POF fabric with a tricolour LED and wearable device technology

    Lin, Miao-Tzu
    41-51页
    查看更多>>摘要：Purpose The purpose of this article is to develop a smart illuminated polymeric optical fibre (POF) chameleonic garment, using a wearable device technology for camouflage or safety warnings based on user needs. Design/methodology/approach This study integrates the theory of the optical foundation, control system, wireless communication, program development and apparel design into a chameleonic garment, displaying some vests, bags and shoes. Findings After selecting a pixel in the photo taken by the smart phone, the four modes of the application developed in this study are used to change the POF colour of the garment. Originality/value This study develops four modes of smart phone application; picked mode: picks a pixel colour on a smart phone canvas, contrastive mode: transfers to contrastive colour of the picked pixel, customized mode - gives input colour number manual and random mode - it based on a system random number. When users have different functional requirements, the four modes provide various choices.
      原文链接:
    • NETL
    • NSTL
    • Emerald Group Publishing

    A sequential hybrid method to establish practical sizing systems based on anthropometric data

    Tjolleng, AmirJung, KihyoHan, HyunsookHan, Hyunjung...
    52-64页
    查看更多>>摘要：Purpose Size fit and economic efficiency are two crucial aspects that need to be considered in designing a sizing system. However, there could exist a trade-off between those aspects in order to establish a practical sizing system. The purpose of this paper is to develop a sequential hybrid method of grid and optimization to generate a practical sizing system using anthropometric data. Design/methodology/approach The proposed sequential hybrid method consisted of two sequential steps, which employs grid method and optimization method. In the initial step, the grid method creates primary grids that accommodate a designated percentage (e.g. 90%) of users with best size fit. In the subsequent step, the optimization method generated additional grids to provide acceptable fit, with minimum fit penalty scores for users unaccommodated by the primary grids. Our method was applied to the development of a sizing system for men's military jackets. The proposed method performances were evaluated in terms of accommodation percentage, size fit and number of sizing categories. Findings Our proposed method resulted in 26 primary grids during the initial step, which cover 90% of users. Next, we generated six additional grids during the subsequent step that provide minimum fit penalty scores for the rest (10%) users. Originality/value The main contributions of this paper are as follows: consider accommodation percentage, size fit and number of sizing categories in the design of sizing system; combine the grid and optimization methods and evaluate a sizing system for men's military jackets. The proposed method is applicable to develop optimal sizing systems for multiple-size products.
      原文链接:
    • NETL
    • NSTL
    • Emerald Group Publishing

    Effect of production speed on polyester/nylon intermingled yarn and melange fabric properties

    Wickramasinghe, G. L. D.Dolawatte, Sameera UmeshThebuwana, Isuru UdayangaBotheju, W. W. S. Sampath...
    65-78页
    查看更多>>摘要：Purpose The main objectives of this research work were to investigate the effect of production speed on intermingled yarn properties and melange fabric properties with special reference to melange appearance. Design/methodology/approach Polyester/nylon intermingled yarns were produced using an SSM DP3-C air-intermingling machine using commercial process parameters and Heberlein P212 nozzle. Melange fabric samples were knitted from polyester/nylon intermingled yarns while maintaining the same parameters to avoid knitting variations. The fabric samples were dyed using a sample dyeing machine while maintaining dye recipe and dyeing parameters constant to avoid dyeing variations. Findings The production speed has significant effect on intermingled yarn and melange fabric properties. When the production speed is increased, mingle points, mingle stability, linear density, strength and the elongation of the intermingled yarns decreases. When the production speed is increased, fabric weight decreases and the melange effect varies from dot-like appearance to line-like appearance. Research limitations/implications Only the effect of production speed on intermingled yarn and melange fabric properties is discussed in this paper. Appearance evaluating systems developed in this research are limited to melange fabrics produced using air-intermingled yarns with two colour components. Practical implications Results indicate that the intermingled yarns for the application of melange fabrics should be developed with optimum intermingling speeds, and it should not be changed during the production since production speed has significant effect on yarn and fabric parameters. Therefore, melange appearance and fabric weight may vary between fabric lots with different production speeds even though all the other parameters are kept constant. Further, melange appearance evaluation method developed in this research could be used as a guide in developing melange fabrics. Originality/value This research introduced a qualitative and a quantitative method to analyse melange fabric appearance. This melange appearance evaluation method can be used as a guide to achieve specific melange effect in the sample development stage. Further, when a melange sample appearance catalogue is developed for all the variables for a particular fabric type using this evaluation method, customer requested appearance can be achieved in minimum sample trials which save time, capacity, money and customer credibility.
      原文链接:
    • NETL
    • NSTL
    • Emerald Group Publishing

    Study on properties of yak cashmere fiber

    Qin, XiaoxuanQu, Lixin
    79-95页
    查看更多>>摘要：Purpose As one natural fiber, yak cashmere has been used more and more widely on textile processing due to its excellent warmth retention property. Yarn spinning is the first and the most important step of textile processing. Yarn spinning is closely related to the fiber properties. That is, for giving the optimization spinning process of one new fiber, the properties of the new fiber should be studied firstly. Meanwhile, during the studying of the properties of the new fiber, comparative analysis method was usually used. That is, the property of the new fiber was common comparatively analyzed with other fibers. During the comparative analysis, the spinning process can be optimized. Therefore, in the paper, the properties of the yak cashmere were studied in detail and comparatively analyzed. Design/methodology/approach The brown yak cashmere, cyan yak cashmere, white cashmere fiber, purple cashmere fiber, cyan cashmere fiber, camel hair fiber and mohair fiber, were chosen as the samples. The fiber length, fineness, strength, curls, moisture regain, mass specific resistance, surface morphology, infrared spectrum, melting behavior, thermal weight loss, friction, x-ray, were tested and comparatively analyzed. Findings It is shown that the compositions of yak cashmere and cashmere are similar, and makes the physical properties of yak cashmere and cashmere fiber similar. Comparing with the mohair, camel hair and cashmere fiber, the average length of yak cashmere is smaller and the dispersion of length distribution is larger, and the dispersion of yak cashmere strength is larger, which makes the yarn spinning of yak cashmere difficult, especially the high count pure yarn. However, comparing with the mohair, camel hair and cashmere fiber, the friction coefficient and friction effect of yak cashmere is larger, and yak cashmere fiber has relatively less curls and larger crimp rate and crimp recovery rate, and can improve the fiber spinnability. Originality/value In the paper, taking the brown yak cashmere, cyan yak cashmere, white cashmere fiber, purple cashmere fiber, cyan cashmere fiber, camel hair fiber, mohair fibers as the samples, the properties of the yak cashmere were studied in detail. The fiber length, fineness, strength, curls, moisture regain, mass specific resistance, surface morphology, infrared spectrum, melting behavior, thermal weight loss, friction, x-ray, were tested and comparatively analyzed. The studies can establish foundation for the optimization of the yak cashmere spinning process, and also can provide information for the end uses of the fiber.
      原文链接:
    • NETL
    • NSTL
    • Emerald Group Publishing

    Sensor and photovoltaic dual functions of a-Si:H solar cell in smart clothing and eyewear

    Lin, Miao-Tzu
    96-109页
    查看更多>>摘要：Purpose Flexible hydrogenated amorphous silicon (a-Si:H) solar cells have many advantages, including lower weight, good flexibility and light sensitivity. Moreover, a-Si:H solar cells can be used as sensors, as indoor light sources and can also generate electricity. These solar cells are suitable for the design of portable systems and curved materials. The purpose of this study was to integrate flexible a-Si:H solar cells and wearable technology and to apply the dual functions of photovoltaics and photo sensors to smart clothing and eyewear. Design/methodology/approach The integration of flexible a-Si:H solar cells and tri-colour light-emitting diodes (LEDs) was used to develop smart auto-flashing clothing. In addition, we combined flexible a-Si:H solar cells and twisted nematic (TN) liquid crystal (LC) cells to design smart self-activation eyewear. Findings The maximum power resistance value of flexible a-Si:H solar cells was used to deduce the equation of solar cell voltage value generated by different percentages of SUN (100% SUN means 100 mW/cm(2)). A solar cell was used as a photo sensor that connects a resistor in a series to the Arduino to detect the voltage value, and then different percentages of SUN are calculated from the equation. Applying the deduced equation to the smart phone APP and Arduino code, we developed a human-machine interface (HMI) to facilitate user operation. Originality/value In this study, the flexible a-Si:H solar cell performs the function of not only photovoltaic power generation but also that of a photo sensor. The smart auto-flashing clothing is suitable for traffic guides, joggers and people engaging in other night activities. This smart self-activating eyewear can adjust to light and protect the eyes.
      原文链接:
    • NETL
    • NSTL
    • Emerald Group Publishing

    Comfortable pressure feeling and clothing pressure on abdomen

    Mitsuno, TamakiYanagisawa, Ayaka Kai
    110-118页
    查看更多>>摘要：Purpose The present study obtained the topography of perceptible (a perfect-fit feeling) clothing pressures from the chest to groin, when a stretching material provided hoop tension to the body surface of participants. Furthermore, the allowable pressure level was examined for the abdomen, which is pressed by underclothes on a daily basis. Design/methodology/approach Participants were nine women aged 21.3 +/- 1.2 years. Each participant's perception of pressure while wearing the experimental band was obtained in a questionnaire using a visual analog scale. Clothing pressure was measured employing a hydrostatic pressure-balancing method as participants adjusted the band length themselves to achieve two conditions: a perfect-fit and tight-fit on the abdomen. Findings The range of comfortable clothing pressure tightening provided by a 2.5 cm-wide elastic band on the abdomen was 0-5.6 hPa for under the bust, waist and groin, and 4.4-9.3 hPa for the chest, lower waist and hips. A nerve plexus of the autonomic nervous system and arteries are distributed over the body surface of the former body parts, which were thus sensitive to tightening around the abdomen. Originality/value The topography of perceptible clothing pressure was obtained when stretching material provided hoop tension to the body surface of the participant. The results of a participant questionnaire agreed with clothing pressure obtained using a hydrostatic pressure-balancing method that has a short-time constant and sensitive resolution. Furthermore, allowable pressure levels were proposed.
      原文链接:
    • NETL
    • NSTL
    • Emerald Group Publishing