摘要
《皇清职贡图》绘有清中前期云、贵、川边等地17种倮㑩支系人物图像,每幅图像上配有说文.这些图文蕴含着丰富而具体的倮㑩服饰文化信息,主要表现为喜挽髻、裹帕、耳缀铜环、短衣、披毡、褶皱短裙、跣足等特征.这些绚丽多彩的倮㑩服饰一方面表现了对自然环境的适应及便于劳作的需要,另一方面反映了清代倮㑩生活区社会发展不平衡和男女分工存在差异的社会现实.《皇清职贡图》所绘倮㑩服饰不仅是倮㑩先民审美的集中体现,更是清中前期倮㑩社会从外化向中心的国家认同过渡的形象表征.
Abstract
Illustrated Imperial Tribute Bearers of the Qing features captioned portraits of 17 sub-groups of the Luo peoples in the border areas of Yunnan,Guizhou,and Sichuan provinces in the early and middle Qing Dynasty(1644-1911).These portraits,in turn,feature traditional Luo costumes,mainly including hi-hats,wraps,bronze earrings,short coats,shawls,pleated skirts and bare feet.These colorful Luo costumes show the needs of the Luo peoples to adapt to the natural environment for convenience in labor on the one hand and,on the other hand,reflect facts of the Luo society at that time,such as imbal-anced social development across different areas and work division between the sexes.Costumes depicted herein represent not only the aesthetics philosophy of the Luo peoples,but also demonstrate their social change process characterized by nationality identity in the early and middle Qing Dynasty.
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