首页|服饰的文化政治:汉服作为"媒介物"的当代"创生"及其划界实践

服饰的文化政治:汉服作为"媒介物"的当代"创生"及其划界实践

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从最初仅在网络上被趣缘群体关注,到如今成为街头巷尾的日常景象,汉服文化不断突破圈层,逐渐成为大众关注热议的话题,也成为青年文化研究的对象.文章认为,要深入理解汉服作为文化现象所蕴含的复杂张力,首先应当将其视为一种"媒介物",通过这一视角,我们能够从物质文化研究的传统出发,审视汉服在当代社会中的"创生"过程以及它所关联的社会关系.其次,应引入边界研究的理论视角.这样不仅可以从物的研究传统开拓现有汉服的讨论范围,还可以从边界的角度出发,深入探讨多元主体在划界和脱圈过程中的动态互动,从而捕捉汉服作为一个"再造传统"所包裹的多元动力,也能捕获其前进方向的线索.
The Cultural Politics of Clothing:The Modern Emergence and its Boundary-Setting Practices of Hanfu as a"Mediating Object"
From merely being discussed online to being seen everywhere on the streets,Hanfu culture catches the public attention and becomes the subject of youth culture research.The article believes that in order to understand the tensions contained in Hanfu as a cultural phenomenon,we first need to regard Hanfu as a"mediating object"and studies its modern emergence and the social relations its connects.Secondly,it is necessary to bring in the theoretical perspective of boundary research to reveal the inner dynamics of Hanfu practice as a"reinvented tradition",and capture clues about its directions.

Hanfuyouth culturematerial cultureboundary theory

季芳芳

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中国社会科学院大学新闻传播学院

中国社会科学院新闻与传播研究所

汉服 青年文化 物质文化 边界理论

2024

国际新闻界
中国人民大学

国际新闻界

CSSCICHSSCD北大核心
影响因子:1.141
ISSN:1002-5685
年,卷(期):2024.46(10)