A Study of Changes in Cheongsam of Young Companion Pictorial under the Influence of the 1929 Regulations on the Administration of Customs
The 1929 Regulations on the Administration of Customs made the modified cheongsam the national dress.At present,academic research on cheongsam styles seems to have been very extensive.But there is no study on the link between the illustrations of cheongsams in the Regulations on the Administration of Customs and the best-selling fashion publications of the Republic of China.This paper aims to investigate the changes in cheongsam styles affected by the governmental decrees through exploring the changes in the images of cheongsams in the Young Companion Pictorial under the influence of the 1929 Regulations on the Administration of Customs.The quantitative analysis of the images of cheongsams in Young Companion Pictorial leads to the conclusion that the cheongsam form gradually evolved from the waistcoat cheongsam and the inverted large-sleeved cheongsam to the modified cheongsam after the promulgation of the 1929 Regulations on the Administration of Customs,and became the mainstream clothing for women in the Republic of China in the 1930s.In addition,with the Regulations on the Administration of Customs stipulating the modified cheongsam as the uniform for female civil servants,Young Companion Pictorial in the 1930s tended to report on highly educated,public-service women,reflecting the trend of professionalism of women in the Republic of China.
Young Companion Pictorial1929 Regulations on the Administration of Customsmodified cheongsam