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二手服装的社会生命史——中肯之间的跨国二手服装贸易网络

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基于对中国与肯尼亚之间二手服装贸易的田野调查,本文从"物的社会生命史"这一角度详细阐述了来自中国的二手服装如何从无价值的"物"转变为肯尼亚市场中的高价值商品.二手服装在贸易网络中的流动,不仅仅被简单的供需关系推动,相反,在商品化的过程中,其本身的属性与价值也不断被不同的价值观、商业逻辑和社会文化所评估、定义与改变.除此之外,二手服装再商品化的过程也是其在地化的过程.肯尼亚等非洲国家并非被动接受来自外国的二手服装,相反,当地社会与居民会根据自身的文化与经济结构不断塑造二手服装的消费文化与市场模式.来自非洲的本土知识与价值体系深刻影响着跨国二手服装贸易的形态,因此,中国的二手服装在肯尼亚市场不仅是一种舶来的消费品,还深刻嵌入当地的社会经济与文化生产,为当地居民在经济与文化生活上提供了更多的选择.
The Social Life History of Second-Hand Clothing:the Trade Network of Second-Hand Clothing be-tween China and Kenya
This study delves into the intriguing dynamics of the second-hand clothing trade between China and Kenya.From the standpoint of"the social life history of things,"The present study attempts to illustrate the pro-cess in which Chinese second-hand clothing transforms from valueless items into valuable commodities in the Kenyan market.The circulation of used clothing within the trade network is not simply determined by supply and demand dynamics.Indeed,a more complex process is at play.In the process of re-commodification,the in-herent attributes and values of the used clothing are continually assessed,redefined,and altered by a matrix of varying factors including societal value systems,business rationales,and socio-cultural influences.Moreover,this study reveals that the re-commodification of second-hand clothing is intertwined with a process of localiza-tion.African nations such as Kenya are not merely passive recipients of second-hand clothes from overseas.In-stead,local societies and individuals actively mold their consumption habits and market strategies in accordance with their unique cultural norms and economic structures.In other words,local African knowledge and value systems play a crucial role in shaping the contours of this transnational second-hand clothing trade.The pres-ence of Chinese second-hand clothes in the Kenyan market signifies more than just the addition of imported con-sumer goods.These items are deeply embedded into local socio-economic frameworks and cultural productions,diversifying the available choices for local residents in their economic and cultural lifestyles.

China-Africa relationstransnational commodity flowthe social life of thingssecondhand clothing

麻博洋

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美国杜克大学文化人类学系

中非关系 跨国商品流动 物的社会生命史 二手服装

2024

开放时代
广州市社会科学院

开放时代

CSTPCDCSSCICHSSCD北大核心
影响因子:1.943
ISSN:1004-2938
年,卷(期):2024.(3)