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旅游影响下的地方饮食文化生产转向:特征与机制

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饮食文化是地方文化生产的重要构成部分,旅游影响下,地方饮食文化生产发生了明显转向,基于文化生产逻辑的地方饮食文化生产从现象发生到机理分析亟须开展理论探索.文章从文化生产理论的视角,以淮扬菜主要发源地之一的扬州为例,运用访谈法、参与式观察法和文献分析法等方法,揭示了旅游影响下地方饮食文化生产转向的特征和机制.研究发现:1)地方饮食文化生产转向的特征体现在4个方面,生产要素更加关注文献典籍与乡土文化中的饮食元素的挖掘与利用,生产场域从传统的限定性场域向着规模化场域及多元化场域转变,生产模式在技术和流程两个层面呈现出由厨房生产技术向舞台化炫技表演以及多场景技术组合递进的特征,结构形态旨在实现内容生产、符号生产和媒介生产三者的协调统一;2)旅游对地方饮食文化生产转向形成重要影响,受到核心因素和辅助因素的共同作用,进而形成生产主体响应机制、地方文化创新发展机制、文旅消费提质牵引机制以及主客协商机制等四重驱动机制;3)在传统文化守正与创新博弈中,旅游影响下的地方饮食文化生产可以更有针对性地串联起各利益相关主体,有效利用生产资料,有机整合文化资源,这为文化生产理论提供另一种解释和分析框架.
The Production Turn of Local Food Culture under the Influence of Tourism:Characteristics and Mechanism
As the integration of culture and tourism is promoted,local food culture production not only needs to cater to changing dietary consumption demands but also to shoulder the mission of leading local cultural innovation and enhancing the influence of local culture.However,hosts and guests often have conflicting expectations,as tourists are more concerned with the authenticity of food culture,while local residents favor the integration of new techniques,flavors,and models alongside traditional heritage.Therefore,local food culture must balance tradition and innovative development.As tourism promotes the transformation of local food culture production,it also reshapes its value system.Research is needed on the logical relationships and mechanisms involved,spanning the entire process from production practices to theoretical construction.Based on the logic of cultural production,the production of local food culture requires exploration in terms of the observation of phenomena and analysis of underlying mechanisms.From a cultural production theory perspective,this article investigates Yangzhou,a birthplace of Huaiyang cuisine,and,using interviews,participatory observation,panel discussions,and documentary analysis,explores how tourism has transformed Yangzhou's local food culture production.The findings are as follows:(1)The transformation of local food culture production is reflected in four aspects:production factors,production fields,production modes,and structural forms.Regarding production factors,there is greater emphasis on the excavation and utilization of dietary elements in literary classics and local culture.The production field has shifted from traditional,confined settings to larger and more diverse settings.Regarding production modes,there is progress at both the technical and process levels,combining kitchen production techniques,staged culinary performances,and multi-scene technologies.Changes in structural form are manifested in the harmonious coordination of content production,symbol production,and media production.(2)The mechanisms driving the transformation of local food culture production under the influence of tourism result from a complex interplay of multiple factors.The driving factors include core elements such as government,industry associations,catering enterprises,tourists,and cultural scholars,and related factors such as the cultural environment,resource endowment,social development,policy support,and innovation capability.Together,these factors result in four key driving mechanisms:a response mechanism for production entities,a mechanism for local cultural innovation and development,a mechanism for promoting the quality of cultural and tourism consumption,and a mechanism for negotiation between hosts and guests.(3)Local cultural production consists of multiple systems,of which dietary culture is one part,and has always been an open production system.As our understanding of the constituent elements of destination tourism consumption and the transformation of development models evolves,the impact of tourism accelerates the transformation of local food culture production,becoming an undeniable driving force in cultural production.Although there is tension between cultural integrity and innovation at the local level,cultural production itself is an evolving dynamic process.From this perspective,the influence of tourism on local food culture production can effectively connect various stakeholders with targeted approaches,utilize production materials more effectively,and organically integrate cultural resources.

tourism impactlocal food cultureproduction diversionfeaturesmechanism

侯兵、李红缘、余凤龙、张爱平

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扬州大学旅游烹饪学院,江苏扬州 225127

长江文化研究院,江苏扬州 225009

中餐非遗技艺传承文化和旅游部重点实验室,江苏扬州 225127

旅游影响 地方饮食文化 生产转向 特征 机制

国家社会科学基金艺术学一般项目

23BH164

2024

旅游学刊
北京联合大学旅游学院

旅游学刊

CSTPCDCSSCICHSSCD北大核心
影响因子:2.013
ISSN:1002-5006
年,卷(期):2024.39(1)
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