Determination of 14 kinds of α-hydroxy acids and hydroxy esters in cosmetics
The study aimed to establish a method for simultaneous determination of 14 kinds of α-hydroxy acids and their esters in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography(HPLC),and the results were confirmed by high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry(HPLC-MS/MS).HPLC was used for gradient elution with 0.05 mol/L diammonium hydrogen phosphate-methanol as the mobile phase.The analytes were separated on a Waters T3-C18(4.6×250 mm,5µm)column and detected at the wavelengths of 214 nm.Quantification analysis was performed by the external standard method.HPLC-MS/MS was used for gradient elution with 0.1%formic acid-acetonitrile containing 0.1%formic acid as the mobile phase,and the analytes were separated on a Waters T3-C18(2.1×100 mm,1.8µm)column.Qualitative analysis was performed by electronic spray ionization under a positive ion and negative ion mode with multiple reaction monitoring(MRM).The linearity of the 14 components in the concentration range is good,with the correlation coefficient r≥0.999.The average spiked recoveries of 14 compounds in 4 cosmetic matrices are all in the range of 85%-115%,and the relative standard deviations are all less than 5%.The limits of detections range from 1 μg/g to 150 μg/g.The limits of quantitation range from 3 μg/g to 450 μg/g.Seven batches of samples containing α-hydroxy acid and its ester were confirmed by HPLC-MS/MS and the results are positive.The results indicate that the method is simple,sensitive and accurate,and is suitable for the determination of 14 kinds of α-hydroxy acids and their esters in cosmetics.
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