Advances in the effects of shampoo surfactants on scalp and their underlying mechanisms
The barrier function of the scalp is maintained by normal sebum secretion and balanced microecology.As the core ingredient to provide cleansing efficacy in shampoos,surfactants can interact with proteins and lipids of stratum corneum(SC),and have an impact on the scalp microecology,thereby disrupting the scalp barrier.In addition,the application of surfactants may cause irritation reactions on the scalp,such as itching,stinging,redness,and inflmmation.Specifically,different types of surfactants may be selective for lipid removal.Anionic surfactants can remove cholesterol,free fatty acids,and squalene with no effect on ceramides and triglycerides,whereas cationic surfactants significantly reduce the contents of triglycerides and ceramides.In the future,lipidomics and microbiomics strategies can be combined to further study the effects of surfactants on scalp lipids and microorganisms,thus providing guidance on the selection of appropriate surfactants for different scalp types,and the basis for the development of shampoos with targeted scalp type,low irritation,and high efficacy.
shampoo surfactantsskin/scalp barriershampoo formulationsscalp care