艺术设计研究2024,Issue(1) :36-44.

"珠翠"的源与流

The Source and Flow of"Zhucui"

叶娇 徐凯
艺术设计研究2024,Issue(1) :36-44.

"珠翠"的源与流

The Source and Flow of"Zhucui"

叶娇 1徐凯2
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作者信息

  • 1. 台州学院人文学院
  • 2. 浙江金融职业学院
  • 折叠

摘要

"珠翠"作为华贵的饰物,盛行于各个朝代.但截至目前,"珠翠"虽收录于各类辞书,可释义并不统一,有关珠翠的材质、具体使用情形和相关名物更是罕有论述.考察珠翠的成词过程及历代文献中的使用情况,结合翡翠、翠的多重含义,我们发现珠翠一名含义丰富,可指贵重物品,可指各种装饰品,还可指代人,不限男女,明清后才专指妇女头饰.通过对历代文献的梳理,参之以传世画作与出土实物,可以得知珠翠作为装饰物,在古代帝王通天冠、宋代女子铺翠冠儿、宋明后妃贵妇的头冠上多有使用,它是冠服制度中的重要组成部分,是使用者身份地位的象征,是彰显华贵美丽的主要方式.冠服体系下的珠翠,其主要材质是珠宝翠羽,主要特征则是光华璀璨、青翠闪耀.

Abstract

As a luxurious ornament,"Zhucui"was popular in various dynasties.But up to now,although"Zhucui"is included in various dictionaries,its defini-tion is not uniform.There is even less discussion on the material,specific usage,and related names of"Zhucui".After investigating the word formation process of Zhucui and its use in previous dynasties,it is found that the word Zhucui is abbreviated from pearl and emerald.Zhucui can refer to valuables,various decorations,and people.In the Ming and Qing Dynasties,it specifically referred to women's headwear.The objects of decoration are extremely rich,not limited to people and objects,not limited to men and women.By referring to handed down paintings and unearthed real objects,it is known that"Zhucui"is used as a decorative object in ancient emperor Tongtian Crown,Song Dynasty women's Pu Cui Guan Er,and the head crowns of Song and Ming empresses and noblewomen.It is an impor-tant component of the ritual costume system,a symbol of the user's status,and the most important way to showcase luxury and beauty.The main material of Zhu-cui is jewelry and kingfisher's feathers,with its main characteristics being dazzling and sparkling green.

关键词

珠翠/翡翠/翠羽/华贵/头饰

Key words

zhucui/emerald/feathers of kingfishers/precious/headwear

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基金项目

浙江省哲学社会科学规划一般项目(20NDJC195YB)

出版年

2024
艺术设计研究
北京服装学院

艺术设计研究

CSSCICHSSCD北大核心
影响因子:0.185
ISSN:1674-7518
参考文献量59
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