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20世纪80年代西欧服饰时尚发展与中国外销印花绸设计范式的"革命性"转换

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20世纪80年代,是中国外销印花绸从零售市场为主的"匹料化"设计,向以服装流行趋势、服用性为主要目的"件料化"设计转换的关键时期.此研究以西欧服饰时尚的变革为基本历史情景,以国内外历史文献为依据,探讨了引发中国外销印花绸设计范式"革命性"转换的主要外因与内因,以及我国外销印花绸设计范式在观念、模式、方法等方面转换的主要途径、特征和相关影响,为中国现代丝绸设计史研究提供了典型的线索和案例.
The Development of Western European Fashion in 1980's and the"Revolutionary"Transformation of the Design Paradigm of Chinese Export Printed Silk
In the 1980s,it was a critical period for China's export printed silk to transition from a"piecemeal"design primarily focused on retail markets to a"piecemeal"design primarily focused on fashion trends and wearability.This study takes the transformation of Western European clothing fashion as the basic his-torical scenario,and based on domestic and foreign historicalliterature,explores the main external and internal factors that led to the"revolutionary"transformation of China's export printed silk design paradigm,as well as the main channels,characteristics,and related impacts of the transformation of China's foreign printed silk design paradigm in terms of concepts,models,methods,and other aspects.It provides corresponding clues and cases for the study of modern Chinese silk design history.

1980sWestern European fashionexport printed silkdesign paradigm"revolutionary"transformation

杨秋华、龚建培

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深圳职业技术大学艺术设计学院

南京艺术学院设计学院

20世纪80年代 西欧服饰时尚 外销印花绸 设计范式 "革命性"转换

国家社会科学基金艺术学项目(2021)

21GB128

2024

艺术设计研究
北京服装学院

艺术设计研究

CSSCICHSSCD北大核心
影响因子:0.185
ISSN:1674-7518
年,卷(期):2024.(1)
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