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从晚清满族坤秋帽"盖花"看满蒙汉文化交融

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"盖花"是晚清满族妇女便服系统中坤秋帽的标配图符,也是区分满族妇女身份尊卑的标识符号,其纹样、形制、材质独具民族特色和时代风尚特征.根据便服不入典的清律,坤秋帽少有可靠的官方文献记载,学术界对其上盖花的研究更是寥寥无几.事实上,坤秋帽是晚清多民族文化交往、交流、交融的物化实证,特别是帽顶的盖花元素,在清代满族其他首服中都不曾出现过.基于此,本文采取多重证据和比较研究方法,通过对坤秋帽盖花纹样的题材类型、装饰位置与经营位置的建构研究,发现盖花的装饰位置在沿袭女真本俗的基础上,受到了蒙古族萨满教万物有灵造物思想的影响;且纹样的"米字型"经营位置可以说是满汉文化深度交融的产物,也是中国传统造物艺术"制器尚象"思想在满族服饰中的细化表现.
A View of the Integration of Manchu,Mongolia,and Han Cultures Base on the"Covering Flowers"of the Kunqiu Hat of the Manchu in the Late Qing Dynasty
"Covering Flowers"is a standard figure symbol for the Kunqiu hat in the casual wear system of Manchu women in the late Qing Dynasty.It is also a symbol that distinguishes the status of Manchu women from the appearance of the"Covering Flowers".Its pattern,shape,and material are unique in ethnic char-acteristics and contemporary fashion.According to the Qing Dynasty's rule that casual clothes are not included in the code,there are few reliable official literature records on the Kunqiu hat,and there is little research on the"Covering Flowers"in the academic community.In fact,Kunqiu hat is a tangible evidence of cultural communication,exchange,and integration among multiple ethnic groups in the late Qing Dynasty,especially the element of"Covering Flowers"on the top of the hat,which did not appear in other Manchu head dressings in the Qing Dynasty.This article adopts multiple evidence and comparative research methods.By study-ing the theme types,decorative positions,and business positions of the Kunqiu hat covering flowers patterns,it is found that the decorative positions of cover flowers are influenced by the creation thinking of the Mongolian shamanism that all things have spirits,while following the traditional customs of Jurchen;The"米"shaped location arrangement of the pattern can be proved to be a product of the deep integration of Manchu and Han cultures,and it is also a refined expression of the traditional Chinese art of creating objects with the concept of"making utensils and worshipping images"in Manchu clothing.

Kunqiu hat covering flowersManchu of the late Qing DynastyDecorative positionPosition arrangementcultural integration

李华文、苏日娜、王悦

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中央民族大学

坤秋帽盖花 晚清满族 装饰位置 经营位置 文化交融

国家社会科学基金重大项目

19ZDA183

2024

艺术设计研究
北京服装学院

艺术设计研究

CSSCICHSSCD北大核心
影响因子:0.185
ISSN:1674-7518
年,卷(期):2024.(1)
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