宋代劳作者阶层视角下的"行缠""邪幅"解读
Interpretation of"Xingchan"and"Xiefu"under the Perspective of Labor Class in the Song Dynasty
张启明 1张玉安2
作者信息
- 1. 北京服装学院
- 2. 北京服装学院美术学院
- 折叠
摘要
本文立足宋代劳作者阶层视角,通过图像与文献的比对与互证,对宋代"行缠"和"邪幅"这两个概念加以考辨,并将它们置于"胫衣"这一范畴下,分析、比较了二者的差异和共同点;同时,对于它们在劳作和日常生活中的功能进行了考查.此外,笔者注意到宋代还有一种与行缠、邪幅有着类似功能诉求的胫部服饰处理方式,即"以线缚裤",并进行了辨析与考证.本文还通过图像梳理了行缠、邪幅及"以线缚裤"方式在中原汉族及少数民族中的流传,并将它们置于劳作者阶层和传统医疗健康的视角下进行审视与解读.
Abstract
This paper studied the concepts of"Xingchan"and"Xiefu"under the perspective of labor class in the Song Dynasty from image and literature,sorted and summarized the differences and common points between"Xingchan"and"Xiefu"under the field of calf-length legging;meanwhile,this paper studied the function of"Xingchan"and"Xiefu"in labor and daily life.Besides,the author noticed and researched the method of handling the pants called"Tie the Pants by Line",which represents the similar function of Xingchan and Xiefu in the Song Dynasty.Meanwhile,this paper sorted and summarized the spread of Xingchan and Xiefu,the method of handling the pants called"Tie the Pants by Line"in the Han people of Central Plains and minority nationality in ancient China by images.This paper examined Xingchan and Xiefu,the method of handling the pants called"Tie the Pants by Line"in Song Dynasty under the perspective of labor class and tra-ditional medical health.
关键词
宋代/劳作者阶层/行缠/邪幅/以线缚裤Key words
the Song Dynasty/labor Class/Xingchan/Xiefu/Tie the Pants by Line引用本文复制引用
基金项目
国家社会科学基金艺术学重大项目(18ZD20)
教育部服务国家特殊需求博士人才培养项目(NHFZ20220008)
出版年
2024
NETL
NSTL
万方数据