The Spread and Evolution of the"Ezo Brocade"Pattern in the Edo Period:Centered around Clothing and Ukiyoe Painting
Ezo Brocades were originally noble robes and silk from the Qing Dynasty.In the tribute trade,they were transported from the Northern Silk Road to Hokkaido and were introduced to mainland of Japan as"Ezo products",which were cherished by the upper-class society.In the 18th century Hokkaido's local chronicles,genre paintings,and portraits,the focus was often on depicting Ainu costumes made of Ezo brocade.The patterns of python or dragon on the noble robes were refined into novel and eye-catching image styles,which were spread to mainland Japan.After being made into Kabuki and geisha costumes,the typical pattern of Ezo Brocade quickly entered printmaking,becoming a popular element in the costumes of"Yakusha-e"and"beauty painting".These images enriched the language of Ukiyoe creation,while also promoting the imitation of patterns in the late Edo performing costumes.Although the imitated patterns of Ezo Brocade have changed in both image and connotation,they still retain the fixed patterns of Python or Dragon,auspicious clouds,and cliff in seawater,revealing the inherited Chinese style.
Ezo BrocadeAinuQing Dynasty noble robepython or dragon patternUkiyoe painting
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