Study on the weaving process of diagonally interlocked and twisted fabrics of the Warring States,Qin and Han Dynasties
During the Warring States,Qin and Han Dynasties,diagonally interlocking twisted fabrics were very popular,not only reaching a peak in terms of the number of excavations,types and range of locations,but also introducing new changes in organizational structure.The diagonally interlocked and twisted fabric is a composite woven material that combines diagonal weaving techniques and twisting techniques to create a fabric with a diagonal grid appearance.The biggest difference of it from other woven fabrics is that the yarns are diagonally interwoven and twisted.In ancient times,people collectively called knitted fabrics with 2/2 diagonally intertwined organizational dots arranged in a rhombic pattern"group",and its organizational structure was called codified group structure.The main types of fabrics used are lacquered yarns and groups.The structure of most of the groups is a single codified group structure,i.e.,the base structure of the organization is in the shape of"X",while the Dabaotai Zuying is the only group band with a compound codified group structure found in the Han Dynasty,and the base structure of its organization is in the shape of"quadrangular petals".The discovery of it confirms some of the records in the literature on the naming and identification of groups,and also provides reliable evidence for the changes in the codified group structure and the corresponding development of the weaving process.To gain a deeper understanding of the organizational structure and weaving process of diagonally interlocked and twisted fabrics,the article took two representative pieces of diagonally interlocked and twisted fabrics of this period as examples.Of them,one is the Dabaotai Han Tomb group band with a compound codified structure,and the other one is the Baoshan Chu Tomb group band with a conventional codified structure.On the basis of a comparative analysis of the organizational structure of both of them,the article used simulation and restoration to investigate their weaving process.Through practice,it is concluded that in the knitting of diagonally interlocked and twisted fabrics,the fundamental differences in the number of twists between warp threads and the flexible variations in the direction of knitting are the reasons behind the significant distinctions in organizational structure and texture characteristics of diagonally interlocked and twisted fabrics.In terms of weaving process,both of them use the diagonal twisting method,but in weaving ordinary group bands,it is more convenient to use the Z or S shaped weaving sequence.Compound group bands do not have this requirement,and the order of knots can be done according to one's own habits.The position and status of the warp threads in a normal group will change with the number of even or odd knots and the status of the first row of knotted threads.There is a certain correlation between the warp thread serial numbers of the knotted side organization points in even or odd rows and those of the knotted side organization points in the first row.The knotting status of the knotted threads and the arrangement order of the warp threads in an ordinary group change in a cycle of two warp threads.The warp threads of the side group of the compound group require three"triple threading"operations between the end of one row and the beginning of the next row.The main body organization and structural design of the compound group makes it superior to the ordinary group in terms of latticework and length stability.If we can obtain more detailed parameter information of the artefacts,we can further carry out the reproduction work of such artefacts.It is hoped that in the process of research on the weaving process of diagonally interlocked and twisted fabrics to reproduce the weaving technique,restore the organizational structure,clarify the specific weaving operation and the tools used,and complete the simulated restoration of the two pieces of braided fabrics,and it is hoped that the results of the research can make up for the gaps in the field of diagonally interlocked and twisted fabrics,and bring certain insights into today's production of braided fabrics and textile design.
diagonally interlocked and twisted fabricWarring States,Qin and Han Dynastiesweaving techniqueorganizational structurewoven texturelatticework
万方数据
维普
