An analysis of ribbon patterns in official clothing of the Song Dynasty
Ribbons,as an ornament worn by officials in the Song Dynasty,not only recorded the real face of official life in the Song Dynasty,but also carried the historical memory of social development in the Song Dynasty.The rank of the officials in the Song Dynasty can be distinguished by the different brocade patterns on the ribbons they wore.Therefore,the ribbon patterns of official clothing in the Song Dynasty are of great value to study the hierarchical system of official clothing,social ideology and artistic characteristics of Song brocade.Based on ancient documents and fabric image data,this paper made an in-depth analysis of the evolution of official clothing ribbons in the Song Dynasty,the characteristics of their patterns and the cultural implications.Three major important conclusions were drawn.First,the ribbon was an ornament to show the power and responsibility of officials.Initially,officials determined the crowns and ribbons according to the level and divided them into three grades.During the Kangding period,the clothing system was revised again.With the joining of Fangsheng brocade,the ribbons were divided into fourth grades.In the second year of Yuanfeng,to unify official names and positions,and balance rights and responsibility,the crowns and ribbons were determined according to official positions,so the Song Dynasty clothing system tended to be mature and stable.Second,the ribbons were used to identify the rank of officials according to their different brocade patterns.Influenced by the traditional social order and neo-Confucianism in the Song Dynasty,the ribbon patterns not only had the beauty of harmony,unity,symmetry and balance,but also had the beauty of continuous repetition and moderate contrast rhythm,with high artistic value.Third,as a symbol of the traditional hierarchical order,the ribbons conveyed changing ideas in an explicit or implicit way.They were conducive to the safeguarding of national governance and the continuation of the inherent hierarchical order,satisfied the pursuit and desire of officials for their status,and were easy to cultivate good self-drive morality of officials,thus enhancing the cohesion of the ruling team and safeguarding the long-term stability of the country.This paper systematically and deeply collected,collated and analyzed the evolution of the ribbons worn in official clothing of the Song Dynasty,clarified the names,users and scope of application of the ribbon patterns,summarized the artistic characteristics and cultural implications of the ribbon patterns.It is helpful to improve the inheritance of hierarchical order information in the Song Dynasty,restore the original appearance of official life,ideology and aesthetic expression in the Song Dynasty,and have a deeper understanding of the ribbon patterns,which has certain reference value for exploring the hierarchical system of official clothing in the Song Dynasty.With the change of dynasties and the development of the times,ribbons no longer have the function of highlighting the status of the wearer and conveying the value of honor,but the meaning of happiness and health contained in them has been loved by people until now,and is widely used in modern textile pattern design.
clothing of the Song Dynastyribbons of official clothingribbon patternSong brocadepattern featurecultural implication