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从近代上海眉勒看中西文化交融

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近代上海女性热衷佩戴珠花眉勒,这在中国其他地区女性服饰装扮中没有像如此集中的表现.文章运用图像、实物和文字史料等方法,探讨了近代上海眉勒造型艺术,梳理了近代上海眉勒时尚传播,由此管窥中西文化交融因素.研究结果表明:眉勒是女性自我身份的象征和自我观念的表达,其中的珠花眉勒受到欧洲新艺术运动影响,是受外来文化影响的新生事物,也是外来文化在上海引起的风气自信;由于近代上海社会性社交活动平台的产生,女性通过珠花眉勒与服饰相搭配参与社会活动;上海时尚领袖通过穿戴包括眉勤的服饰在十里洋场参加公共活动、在时尚空间里进行炫耀性表演,她们的审美影响其他阶层女性.这些是中西文化交融的具体体现.
On the integration of Chinese and Western cultures from modern Shanghai headbands
Modern Shanghai ladies were keen to wear a pearl headband,which was not so popular among ladies in other parts of China.Around 1890,Shanghai fashion ladies led the fashion trend in the Jiangnan region and became famous nationwide.From 1890 to 1918,Shanghai gathered almost all the fresh and fashionable things.The academic circles'research on headbands mainly focuses on shape arts,ergonomics and other aspects.However,there are few studies on the integration of Chinese and Western cultures from headbands.This study is of great significance in highlighting the connotations and characteristics of the modern Shanghai culture.By using images,objects and historical materials,this study explored the modern Shanghai headband arts and sorted out the spread of fashion,thus observing the factors of cultural integration between China and West.The once existing fresh world from objects to people,then to society was restored progressively layer by layer.This study shows that ladies wearing jewelry such as pearl headbands not only cared about beauty,but also cared about using jewelry to put themselves into the social structure.Headbands are a symbol of ladies'self-identity and an expression of their concepts.Pearl headbands,influenced by Art Nouveau,were a new thing influenced by the foreign culture,and also a confident style influenced by foreign culture Shanghai.Modern Shanghai ladies'jewelry did not fully copy Western fashion trends.While being westernized,it retained the conservatism and refinement of modern Shanghai culture,forming a fashion symbol combining tradition and trendiness.So,Shanghai's urban modernity culture is not just a simple transplant of Western culture,but a unique urban culture with Chinese characteristics that has emerged from the soil of China.With the emergence of social activity platforms in modern Shanghai,ladies participated in social activities with the combination of the pearl headband and clothing.Shanghai fashion leaders participated in public activities in Shiliyangchang by wearing clothing including headbands,performing ostentatiously there.Pearl headbands adorned the fashion leaders'heads with a sparkling outer cover,making them a magnificent helmet for participating in social activities.Ladies from other social classes were influenced by the aesthetic appeal of the Shanghai fashion leading class.The fashion communication model characterized by the guidance of fashion leaders,the emulation by the middle class,and the aspiration of the common people was formed.In the einternational metropolis of Shanghai,ladies stepped out of their homes and integrated themselves into society.From reclusive beauties to urban beauties,Shanghai fashion ladies had ample opportunities to closely observe Western men and women's fashion.They performed"westernized fashion show"in the public space of Shiliyangchang,which has an impact on the formation of Shanghai modern urban culture.At Shiliyangchang,fashion leaders seized every opportunity and successfully expanded themselves into public domain.They were very supportive of the Shanghai concession culture combining Chinese and Western cultures,and traditional and modern elements.They actively absorbed Western fashion elements and imaginative ideas.The pearl headbands they were passionate about wearing are strong evidence that the Art Nouveau jewelry style has influenced traditional Chinese lady headwear art.The modern publishing industry in Shanghai contributed to the lifestyle of fashion leaders,and entertainment news particularly promoted the image of fashion leaders.Their self-performance and public response from the media further promoted their clothing and decoration.The literary and artistic atmosphere of fashion leaders gave them the potential to express new things,and they successfully attracted public attention,making these innovative new things accepted by people.These are the concrete manifestations of the integration of Chinese and Western cultures.Although the headband is small,it shows the interaction between Eastern and Western countries,the fusion between Eastern and Western masses,and finally produces a combination of Chinese and Western headwear,reflecting the process of popularity of this fashion object.After the May Fourth Movement in 1919,the headband disappered,and its fate in modern Shanghai was both a history of growth and a history of disappearance.

modern timesShanghaiheadbandjewelryintegration of Chinese and Western culturesmodernity

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上海工程技术大学 纺织服装学院,上海 201620

中国美术学院 手工艺术学院,杭州 310002

近代 上海 眉勒 首饰 中西文化交融 现代性

国家社会科学基金艺术学项目

21CG189

2024

丝绸
浙江理工大学 中国丝绸协会 中国纺织信息中心

丝绸

CSTPCD北大核心
影响因子:0.567
ISSN:1001-7003
年,卷(期):2024.61(2)
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