Study on the dyeing and weaving technology of Lu silk quilt surface from the perspective of southeastern Shanxi culture
Lu silk is a cultural symbol that records the unique social life and thoughts of people in southeastern Shanxi,containing rich folk customs and culture,and reflecting distinct regional characteristics.The weaving technology of Lu silk is not only one of the national intangible cultural heritages,but also a classic representative of Shanxi silk weaving technology.However,due to the decline of the Lu silk industry in the later period and the lack of relative data,there are few studies on it.At present,studies mainly focus on the artistic style and digital protection methods of Lu silk,and studies on the craftsmanship of Lu silk are mostly limited to records of its traditional handicrafts.There is still a gap in the exploration of Lu silk jacquard craftsmanship.The research on the dyeing of Lu silk is limited to the interpretation of colors and the literature review of dyeing methods,without restoring the dyeing process of Lu silk.To provide people with a deeper and more comprehensive understanding of the weaving process of Lu silk,this article takes Lu silk objects woven by traditional techniques as the research object,and interprets the weaving and dyeing process of Lu silk from the perspective of historical and culture,region,and folk customs in southeastern Shanxi.The main idea is to conduct deep research on the unique weaving process of Lu silk,including symmetrical weaving,the combination of stick knives and pattern needles,and layered dyeing process.It can provide valuable experience for studies on intangible cultural heritage in the future,so that traditional textile technology of Lu silk can be better promoted and inherited.Interpreting the weaving and dyeing techniques of Lu silk from the perspective of historical culture,regional factors,and folk customs in southeastern Shanxi is a typical case study of the relationship between regional culture and traditional techniques,and can fill the gap in the overall framework,providing valuable experience for further research on intangible cultural heritage.The research has shown that the weaving and dyeing process of Lu silk is closely related to the geographical environment,historical culture,folk customs,and other factors in southeastern Shanxi,and contains rich humanistic connotations,as reflected in the following aspects.First,Lu silk takes traditional symmetry as beautiful,and expands the width of the covered door by combining practicality and aesthetics through symmetrical assembly techniques,lifting devices,and adding plain edges.The lifting device introduced with the appearance of modem jacquard machines needs to be coordinated with the stick knife to achieve the highest efficiency.Its unique embedded symmetrical structure not only saves the workload of artisans in drawing,but also improves the width of the quilt surface under a limited number of stitches.The combination of artistic aesthetics and weaving techniques reflects the external characteristics of folk preferences and reflects the traditional and natural folk customs.Second,the special regional characteristics of combining roughness and delicacy,as well as the open exchange of Shanxi merchant culture,have driven the migration of value orientation in southeastern Shanxi,jointly affecting the raw materials,weave structure,and exquisite expression of Lu silk.Using filature silk and synthetic silk with better performance for interweaving reduces hairiness and weaving defects to a certain extent;and by utilizing the differences in fineness between warp and weft,the full and three-dimensional pattern can be better expressed;the weave structure is often paired with satin and floating length,resulting in a good appearance glossiness;the various processing techniques used by the artisan,such as Jiansi,shadowing,and Nidi,all enhance the three-dimensional effect of the pattern.Third,the red worshiping custom in southeastern Shanxi is in line with Chinese tradition,which is mainly reflected in the main color tone of Lu silk regarding red as beautiful.Traditional Lu silk is dyed with grass and wood,with safflower as the red dye.The red color of modem Lu silk originated from the national flag red.By adopting a layered dyeing process,and utilizing the difference in dyeing performance between mulberry silk and artificial silk,a set of warp colors and two sets of weft colors are presented.This article interprets the weaving process of Lu silk from the perspective of regional culture and folk customs in southeastern Shanxi,explores the manifestation of regional cultural value in Lu silk fabrics,reconstructs the cultural identity centered on Lu silk,and aims to inherit and revive Lu silk skills.
Lu silkweaving processsymmetric fabricationregional culturedyingsoutheastern Shanxi
万方数据
维普
