Research on the differences and classification of Mongolian costumes'characteristics based on eye-moving experiment
Mongolian costumes are one of the representative items of national intangible cultural heritage in China.However,it is urgent to improve the research on the cultural system of Mongolian costumes,since the original materials of clothing culture are missing gradually and there are fewer occasions for wearing traditional clothing with the continuous changes in the production and life of nomadic peoples.Previous studies focused on three main content types of Mongolian costumes,with the first type focusing on the comprehensive analysis of costumes of a single Mongolian tribe,the second type attaching importance to the comparative analysis and study of the costumes of multiple Mongolian tribes for specific areas,and the third type laying particular emphasis on the systematic study of Mongolian costumes.At present,multiple studies focus on costumes of a single tribe,such as Erdos,Horqin,Baerhu,Buryat and Ujimqin tribes,while there is less or even no research on other tribes,and there is a dearth of regional and overall studies.After their interaction with each other during the migration process,the costume culture characteristics of each tribe have been integrated into the general characteristics.As research describing the nature of costumes of a single tribe is not enough to reveal the attributes of the overall system,it is necessary to carry out systematic analysis and research of Mongolian costumes for in-depth excavation of Mongolian costume culture gene and its evolution,which is conducive to the better inheritance and development of the Mongolian costume culture.Eye-moving technology records eye movements through advanced equipment such as eye trackers,which can directly reflect the visual movement laws of the subject,thereby revealing the psychological cognitive process of the subject and the response to visual elements stimuli.The increasingly maturing eye-moving technology is widely used in various fields such as graphic design,product testing,scene research,and human-computer interaction.It is also widely used in the field of fashion and apparel design as an effective means of Kansei engineering,such as overseas clothing function detection,brand recognition,feature comparison and visual attention mechanism research,while domestic applications are mostly used in clothing style,feature extraction,innovative design and visual attention mechanism research.To reveal the differences in the characteristics of the costumes of the 28 existing Mongolian tribes in Inner Mongolia,the article carried out scientific and precise systematic classification research.Firstly,according to the local standard DB15/T 506-2012,the 28 samples of typical Mongolian women's costumes of different tribes were divided into six areas of interest,namely headdress,collar,front fly,waist,bottoms and sleeves,and then the eye-moving experiments were conducted to obtain the indexes of the duration of the first gaze,the total duration of gaze,the number of times of gaze,and heat maps of the 110 experimental participants in the six areas of interest.Finally,the software SPSS was used to analyze the significance of differences,multivariate ANOVA and cluster analysis of the indicators in the six areas of interest of costumes in the 28 tribes.The article will improve the traditional qualitative method on Mongolian tribal costumes.By using quantitative eye-moving technology to systematically analyze them,it achieves more scientific and precise systematic classification research.The results indicate that the main effects of the 28 Mongolian tribal costumes are significant in six areas of interest,there is no significant difference between the three major costume categories'regions,the ethnicity and gender interactions are significant in front fly,waist and sleeve areas of interest,and the different areas of interest are significantly affected by different factors,and all the tribal costumes can be finally clustered into the three major categories of centralized perception,overall perception,and headdress perception.To sum up the above research conclusions,the eye-moving experiment based on subjects'visual differences are more suitable for the classification study of headdress style,costumes patterns,trimming process and accessories,while the effect of the classification significance study is weaker for waist structure and sleeve process of costumes.In the subsequent research,it is necessary to expand the samples of Mongolian tribal costumes in different historical development periods,optimize the eye-moving experiment design schemes about costume structure,costume patterns,trimming and accessories,and carry out qualitative and quantitative research and comprehensive analysis to improve the precise classification system of the costumes of the 28 tribes in the Inner Mongolia autonomous region by combining cultural gene theory and digital virtual technology.
Mongolian costumesfeature differenceseye-moving experimentregion of interestclassification researchcluster analysis
万方数据
维普
