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从清宫内务府汉文奏销档看织染局种种

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文章基于中国第一历史档案馆藏内务府汉文奏销档中关于织染局的七份档案,通过梳理乾隆和嘉庆年间内织染局设置及所辖人、财、物变更等重要事项,分析了清朝中期织染局的沿革历史、人员构成和分工、所用物料、织造品类和使用去向等种种问题,阐明了织染局作为清代官营织造机构之一的特殊性质和使命,以及与江南三织造的联系和区别.织染局作为清代唯一一处位于京内的官营织造机构,其用丝主要来自江南三织造的供应,在匠役的来源上也与江南地区有着密切联系.由于地理条件及生产规模所限,织染局所产丝织原料质量、生产规模和产品类别均不能与三织造相比.但是作为随传随办的织造机构,织染局能够灵活应变,满足上用和内用的临时需求,因此在清代官营织造机构中具有特殊地位.而且,自乾隆十七年(公元1752年)织染局迁入万寿山演化为耕织图后,不仅通过精简人员和技艺优化来扩大生产品类和提高产品质量,更与皇帝倡导农桑的政策紧密结合,逐渐形成兼具实际生产意义和政策示范性的场所,同时也满足了皇帝对江南田园生活的向往,成为承载官营生产织造和皇帝人文思想的理想机构.
Viewing various issues regarding the Weaving and Dyeing Bureau from the Han language memorandum archives of the Qing palace's Ministry of Internal Affairs
In the First Historical Archives of China,seven Chinese memorandum archives related to the Weaving and Dyeing Bureau can be retrieved,which can comprehensively reflect the relevant historical facts of the Weaving and Dyeing Bureau in the middle Qing Dynasty in terms of time span and content.This provides new first-hand materials for further sorting and studying the evolution history,staff composition and division of work,materials used,weaving categories,and application whereabouts of the Weaving and Dyeing Bureau in the middle Qing Dynasty.It helps to clarify and highlight the position and function of the Weaving and Dyeing Bureau as the only official weaving institution in Beijing.The article analyzed the various problems of the Weaving and Dyeing Bureau in the Middle Qing Dynasty by sorting out important matters such as the establishment of the bureau and the changes in personnel,finance,and materials under its jurisdiction during the Qianlong and Jiaqing periods.The conclusion is that the Weaving and Dyeing Bureau,as the only official weaving institution located in Beijing during the Qing Dynasty,mainly relied on the silk supply from the Three Weaving Bureaus in the Jiangnan region.The craftsmen,also closely related to the Jiangnan region,were mostly descendants of aristocratic families who were selected from Suzhou and Hangzhou to come to Beijing during the Shunzhi period,or directly selected from Jiangning,Suzhou,and Hangzhou to come to Beijing as supplementary forces for the Weaving and Dyeing Bureau.Due to geographical conditions and production scale limitations,the quality,production scale,and product category of silk weaving raw materials produced by the Weaving and Dyeing Bureau could not be compared with those of the Three Weaving Bureaus.However,as a weaving institution that operated on call,the Weaving and Dyeing Bureau was able to flexibly adapt to meeting the temporary demands of upper and inner use,thus holding a special position in the official weaving institutions in the Qing Dynasty.Moreover,after the Weaving and Dyeing Bureau moved to Wanshou Mountain in the 17th year of the Qianlong period,Plowing and Weaving Pictures were drawn.Not only did the bureau expand production categories and improve product quality through streamlining personnel and optimizing skills,but also it was closely integrated with the emperor's policy of advocating agriculture and sericulture,gradually becoming a place that combined practical production significance and policy demonstration.At the same time,it also satisfied the emperor's longing for idyllic life in Jiangnan,becoming an ideal institution to carry official production and weaving and the emperor's humanistic thoughts.The article is based on the Han language memorandum archives related to the Weaving and Dyeing Bureau of the First Historical Archives of China.It reveals and sorts out data on the composition and quantity of staff in the Weaving and Dyeing Bureau,the level of silver-and-rice(salary)and staff quantity in each level,the number of stored and used pigments,the number of woven objects,and the whereabouts of woven objects at a specific time.It analyzes in detail various issues related to the Weaving and Dyeing Bureau in the middle Qing Dynasty,providing a more realistic and objective perspective to clarify the special quality and mission of the Weaving and Dyeing Bureau as one of the official weaving institutions in the Qing Dynasty.

the Qing Dynasty palaceMinistry of Internal AffairsHan language memorandum archivesWeaving and Dyeing Bureauplowing and weaving scenery areaartisandyesproduction category

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北京服装学院敦煌服饰文化研究暨创新设计中心,北京 100029

清代宫廷 内务府 汉文奏销档 织染局 耕织图 工匠 染料 生产品类

故宫博物院开放课题北京服装学院"服装学"新兴交叉学科平台建设项目

20211103711000024T000003073871

2024

丝绸
浙江理工大学 中国丝绸协会 中国纺织信息中心

丝绸

CSTPCD北大核心
影响因子:0.567
ISSN:1001-7003
年,卷(期):2024.61(5)
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