首页|器物文化视阈下宋代服饰审美研究

器物文化视阈下宋代服饰审美研究

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文章从器物文化的视角出发,运用文献研究法、图像研究法和比较研究法,在古籍文献、传世图像与出土文物中钩沉索隐,撷取宋代家具、瓷器类型与服饰形制风格,或就色彩装饰进行比较分析,归纳推理宋代服饰器物文化内涵及其审美价值.研究表明:宋人对待家具、瓷器及服饰器物文化的态度,既有承续传统的"大道至简"思想的体现,也有文人精神与"世俗化"思想的体现.宋代服饰基本遵循清雅简素,但局部装饰却材美工巧、富丽雅致,其服饰形制风格具有一定的"近世化"特征,这是宋制汉服能够在当代社会流行的重要原因.文章为传统服饰的传承与创新提供新的思路和必要的理论支撑.
Research on the aesthetics of the Song Dynasty costumes from the perspective of artifact culture
Nowadays,the traditional Chinese costume cultural activities themed around"the Song Dynasty"are flourishing.To meet the diverse needs of consumers,clothing brands are drawing inspiration from the Song Dynasty costumes and design innovative costumes with aesthetic elements of the Song Dynasty.The Song Dynasty costume and artifact culture is an important source of innovative design of contemporary costume and artifact culture.Therefore,the study of costume and artifact culture and its aesthetics in the Song Dynasty is of significant importance,which provides new ideas and necessary theoretical support for the inheritance and innovation of traditional costumes.From the perspective of artifact culture,the paper used the literature research method,image research method and comparative research method to induce and infer the cultural connotation and aesthetic value of costumes and artifacts in the Song Dynasty.Three important conclusions were drawn.First,the attitude of the Song people towards the culture of furniture,porcelain,and costume and artifact reflected not only the traditional thought that"great truths are always simple",but also literati spirit and"secularization".Therefore,the ceremonial dress in the Song Dynasty followed an orderly tradition with strict hierarchy and orderliness,while the casual wear in the Song Dynasty emphasized practicality and suitability for easy wearing,combining beauty and practical functions,which gave it an aesthetic charm that can be appreciated by both refined and popular tastes.Second,the upper class in the Song Dynasty attached great importance to regulations on headwear and clothing,and laws and etiquette regulations stipulated the clothing of all social classes in the Song Dynasty.The Song Dynasty costumes basically followed the principles of elegance,simplicity,and prioritized"quality"over"ornamentation".However,due to the influence of factors such as commodity economy,urban prosperity,literati spirit and secularization,the Song people advocated practical dressing while pursuing elegant demeanor.As a result,the overall clothing style remained elegant and simple,but the local decorations emphasized exquisite craftsmanship,richness and elegance.The soft and tranquil colors,combined with harmonious color matching,produced a distinctive visual effect and possessed high aesthetic value.Third,the economic prosperity in the Song Dynasty stimulated consumption among the populace,which in turn drove production.This led to the continuation of traditional costume and artifact culture as well as creative innovations of it in the Song Dynasty,resulting in a certain level of sophistication in clothing creation.In the Song Dynasty,the basic structure of tie-belt with hidden buckle appeared,containing profound creation thoughts,which endows it with a modern-oriented characteristic of convenience and practicality.This is an important reason why the Hanfu of the Song Dynasty style can be popularized in contemporary society.The article systematically and thoroughly collects,organizes,and analyzes furniture,porcelain,and clothing styles in the Song Dynasty,as well as their color decoration.It not only studies from the perspective of the Song Dynasty costume culture but also from the perspective of the Song Dynasty artifact culture,examining cultural forms such as modeling,technique,craft and style.The article searches for clues in ancient books,handed-down images,and unearthed cultural relics,trying to minimize the one-sidedness caused by the limitations of a single artifact perspective.The article studies the cultural connotation and aesthetic value of costumes and artifacts in the Song Dynasty,so as to provide certain insights and reference for the design of the Song Dynasty Hanfu,as well as new ideas and necessary theoretical support for the inheritance and innovation of traditional costumes.

artifact culturethe Song Dynasty costumecreation thoughtelegant and simpleconvenience and practicalitymodern-oriented

张虹

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杭州职业技术学院达利女装学院,杭州 310018

器物文化 宋代服饰 造物思想 清雅简素 便身利事 近世化

浙江省哲学社会科学规划项目

23NDJC362YB

2024

丝绸
浙江理工大学 中国丝绸协会 中国纺织信息中心

丝绸

CSTPCD北大核心
影响因子:0.567
ISSN:1001-7003
年,卷(期):2024.61(5)
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