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外销绸缎样本的版本形制及编撰特征考略(1957-1985年)

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外销绸缎样本是丝绸设计文化、丝绸贸易的主要传播载体之一,也是研究现代丝绸设计史的重要档案文献.文章以中国丝绸公司1957-1985年编纂发行的系列外销绸缎样本为例,运用现代版本学、档案学、文献学等研究方法,从"版本学"的角度对其编撰主体、版本形制、各时期的编撰特征等进行考证和阐述,解决了现代绸缎设计史研究中,面对众多无时间标注单页绸缎样本难以判断具体年代的困惑与问题,为甄别不同时期、不同主体编撰的单页绸缎样本提供了翔实、准确的文献考证和图文参照.
A study on the edition forms and compilation characteristics of sample books for exported silk and satin from 1957 to 1985
From the founding of the People's Republic of China to the early days of reform and opening-up,China printed and issued a great number of silk sample books for export by different compilation subjects,different versions of form,and different sales markets.However,of these silk sample books collected from the collecting institutions and individual collectors,many scattered single-volume or single-page sample books lack the annotation of relevant compilation and issuance time.This issue has brought difficulty and confusion to the collection and researchers on the examination and utilization,and even misunderstanding on the citation and research.It also leads to the the fact that it is difficult to properly reflect the collection value,historical value,cultural value,and social value of this part of sample books.Taking the series of exported silk sample books compiled and issued by China Silk Company and other companies in the previous years as the main object,this paper clarified the compilation and form characteristics of the editions in different years from the physical form of the editions.Moreover,from the cultural form of the editions,the paper explored the relationship between socio-economics,foreign trade strategy,science and culture and the changes of the editions,as well as their value and contribution to the development of China's modern silk design and silk foreign trade.The research results provide meaningful references for the collection and identification of exported silk sample books of modem days,the study of the history of Chinese silk design,and the innovative design of modern silk.The paper clearly defined some conceptual problems of editions in the study of exported silk sample books by drawing on the relevant research methods of edition studies,archival science,bibliography,etc.The paper also carried out in-depth research,collection and sorting of the silk sample books between 1957 and 1985,and examined and elaborated the compilation subjects,the form of editions,and the compilation characteristics of each period,providing detailed and accurate documentary evidence and graphic references for the screening of single-page silk sample books compiled in different periods and by different subjects,and solving the confusion and problem that it is difficult to judge the specific age when confronting various single-page silk sample books in the study of the history of modern silk design.Exported silk sample books are one of the main transmission carriers of silk design culture and silk trade.The paper believes that,whether it is the study of exported silk sample books or domestic silk sample books,if it is only concerned about the silk sample book or its general archival value,while ignores the identification and thorough examination of the subject,time and mode of dissemination of the sample books from the perspective of editions,and ignores the discussion on the relationship between the formation and development of the sample books and the driving forces such as politics,economy,culture and ideology,then there may be some limitations and deviations in the cognition,understanding and conclusion of the research,which will further affect the academic rigor of the research on satin varieties and colors and the development of silk design history.Therefore,the textual research and exploration of the issue subject,time and historical context of silk sample books in different periods,and the compilation principle,as well as the overall analysis and demonstration of silk sample books as a material form reflecting"historical presence",should become the subject of full attention in the study of the history of modem silk design.

sample books of exported silk and satinedition formcompilation subjectcompilation characteristicsvalue characteristicsexamination

龚建培、严宜舒

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南京艺术学院设计学院,南京 210013

外销绸缎样本 版本形制 编撰主体 编撰特征 价值特征 考略

国家社会科学基金艺术学项目

21BG128

2024

丝绸
浙江理工大学 中国丝绸协会 中国纺织信息中心

丝绸

CSTPCD北大核心
影响因子:0.567
ISSN:1001-7003
年,卷(期):2024.61(6)