The cutting method and creation view of traditional Shanghai style cheongsams
During the period of the Republic of China,the traditional Chinese cheongsam successfully completed the modernization transformation with the methods of"Westernized Chinese style"and"integration of the East and the West",and became the only"living fossil"of the successful transformation in the 5,000 years of traditional Chinese clothing history.In the context of"carrying forward the excellent traditional culture of China and enhancing cultural self-confidence",in-depth research on the cheongsam of the Republic of China may point out the direction for today's fashion designers in inheriting and innovating traditional clothing culture.The cheongsam of the Republic of China is a"transitional form"in the development sequence of the cheongsam.This paper used the methods of literature research,physical research and interviews with folk artists to sort out and summarize the development of cheongsams through four main periods:Manchu's cheongsam,Shanghai style cheongsam,Taiwan and Hong Kong cheongsam and contemporary fashion cheongsam.Specifically,the development of the Shanghai style cheongsam of the Republic of China experienced the evolution of different shapes such as the inverted large-sleeve cheongsam,the tailored cheongsam and the"typical cheongsam of the Republic of China"in the mature stage.On this basis,the paper defined the"Shanghai style cheongsam of the Republic of China"as the typical cheongsam of the Republic of China in the mature stage after the revolution in the 1930s and 1940s.The Shanghai style cheongsam of the Republic of China is convenient,beautiful and economical,showing the characteristics of seeking novelty and difference.The overall style is simple and elegant,subtle and soft,and matches well with both Chinese and Western clothing.By observing and recording the cutting process of a typical Shanghai style cheongsam of the Republic of China,the paper tried to make a painstaking examination from the size and cutting method of traditional clothing philosophy,and explored the traditional creation concept and traditional Chinese aesthetic of the typical Shanghai style cheongsam through the phenomena.The study pointed out that the cutting method of the Shanghai style cheongsam in the Republic of China maintained the traditional Chinese plane cutting,did not make plates in advance,and was generally carried out by the way of laying materials on the board and cutting while sewing.The technical difficulty lies in how to solve the problem of"covering the front"caused by"digging the front".This paper shows the most commonly used"off-warp cutting method"of the Shanghai style cheongsam of the Republic of China,and restores the traditional way of inch picking,the techniques of"front stealing",the shrinking of"pleats",blocking,ironing and collar making.This paper interprets the creative concepts of"applying art according to materials"and"carrying Tao with skills"and the costume-making ideals of"integrality,seamless clothing,and material saving",and reveals the aesthetic characteristics of"beauty of shape","beauty of artisan"and"beauty of workmanship"of cheongsam craft from the aspects of structure,molding and techniques,in order to provide reference for further research on the excellent Chinese costume culture.
万方数据
维普
