Comparative study on Chinese needlelooping embroidery and European needle lace
Both needlelooping embroidery and needle lace are based on looping techniques,yet they are seldom discussed together despite their shared foundational element.Needlelooping embroidery emerged during the Yuan and Ming Dynasties in China.Although it is classified as a traditional embroidery technique,it has become relatively rare in modern embroidery.Needle lace is one of the two classic types of lace,and is a crucial element of Western fashion from the Renaissance to the pre-modern era.Due to their temporal misalignment and geographic distance,these crafts have rarely been studied in the same academic context.In Western academia,needlelooping embroidery was once mistakenly described as"lace".It was corrected by scholars stating that"this technique does not produce an independent fabric that light can pass through".This correction is the only instance of related discussion between the two in relevant studies.This misunderstanding also indirectly reflects the fact that there is a certain similarity between the two.This situation inevitably raises a series of questions:what are the specific similarities and unique characteristics manifested by these two crafts,and are there any historical connections between them at certain points in history?The subtle connections between these two crafts hint at early interactions between Eastern and Western civilizations.A comparative study can bridge the research gap under the cultural differences between the East and the West.Clarifying their historical connections could provide new clues for the early exchanges between Eastern and Western civilizations.Recognizing the similarities and specific characteristics of both crafts can prevent confusion in future research.Furthermore,a comparative study within a cultural framework can explore the significant impact of culture on crafts and their elements.This paper first identified the cultural and artisanal systems to which needlelooping embroidery and needle lace embroidery belong,clarifying that they are part of the embroidery and lace crafts,respectively.It then detailed the technical history of both,seeking similarities and differences in technical details and discussing their technical connections in the context of Eastern and Western history.Finally,it analyzed the motivations behind the differences presented by both crafts.The primary research method in this study is comparative research.For the differences in craft systems,the study relies on previous research and the restoration of their structural details from both sides,summarizing their system affiliations.The craft connection part is primarily based on physical research,further categorizing technical development to provide chronological evidence required for technical connections.In the analysis of the causes of differences,the article integrates the concept of cultural genes.It employs a framework based on five external elements tailored to the subjects of this study to discuss their divergent development.Furthermore,it leverages cross-cultural research methods from comparative art studies to investigate the impact of societal aesthetics on their external appearances.It is found that Chinese needlelooping embroidery is a more specialized category within traditional Chinese embroidery,whereas Western needle lace is a prominent variety distinct from the embroidery system.An examination of the technical histories of both crafts reveals that needlelooping embroidery emerged in the 14th century,with its technology reaching maturity in the 15th century.Needle lace emerged in Europe in the early 16th century,evolving from embroidery and drawn thread techniques,with real innovation coming from a shift in the approach to needlework.This shift shares similar elements with needlelooping embroidery.The study of differences between the two crafts found significant variations in their form and color characteristics,notably in color choice and the pursuit of open effects.The technical principles of Chinese needlelooping embroidery and Western needle lace are highly similar,suggesting that needlelooping embroidery may have inspired the emergence of needle lace in the 15th century.These differences in artistic representation stem from varying textile technologies and cultural backgrounds between Eastern and Western societies,which have led to the formation of distinct aesthetic systems.These crafts have gradually became part of different craft systems under different cultural aesthetics,leading to divergent developments.The comparative study of Chinese needlelooping embroidery and European needle lace places two crafts,traditionally studied within their respective academic fields,in the same context for discussion.This discussion also uncovers the potential historical connections between the two,suggesting further exploration into Central Asian embroidery,which exists between Chinese needlelooping embroidery and European needle lace,with the collection of more historical data,potentially uncovering more historical details about the exchange process from the Far East to Western Europe.The coexistence of similarities and differences between these two crafts presents an interesting template for cultural studies,potentially offering more insights into cross-cultural details hidden behind differences in color choices driven by aesthetic variations and openwork effects.
needlelooping embroideryneedle lacecomparative studyhandicraftsChinese and Western cultureculture gene
万方数据
维普
