Research on the classification of woven gold brocade in the Yuan Dynasty and the exchange and integration of different varieties
Woven gold brocade is the most luxurious fabric in the Yuan Dynasty and also the most valuable variety for exploration.The popular woven gold brocade in the Yuan Dynasty included Nasij from the West and the traditional Chinese Jinduanzi.At present,although there have been many related studies based on literature or material objects,there are still many unsolved confusions about the woven gold brocade,including the similarities and differences between Nasij historical records and the plain Nasij,and between the Jinduanzi and Cao Jinduanzi,as well as the evolution process of the evolution of Nasij and Jinduanzi as well.After a comparative analysis of literature,images,and material objects,this paper interpreted this kind of characteristic fabric more clearly and comprehensively from the perspectives of classification and communication and integration,and drew the following three conclusions.Firstly,the transliteration of纳石失in Chinese comes from Nasij,which is the abbreviation of"Nasij al dhahab al hara"in Arabic.Nasij means cloth,and dhahab means gold.Literally,it means cloth woven with gold threads.Nasij has extremely high requirements for the gold content of gold threads to achieve a visual effect of"gold-on-gold".The plain Nasij mentioned in the literature might be Nasij woven more suitable for summer with less gold wefts,or woven gold brocade without jacquard weave.Regardless of the type,Nasij belongs to the Western gold weaving system,with its organizational structure being dominated lampas,and the wefts are often woven in the form of a pair of twisted gold threads.Secondly,Jinduanzi is a kind of traditional woven gold brocade in China,representing the Eastern woven gold system.Before the Mongol Empire,almost all the woven gold brocade seen in China were of this type.It is always with the offset motifs in gold in a plain ground.Cao Jinduanzi might be a type of relatively low-grade woven gold brocade from folk workshops and the origin of this name might be due to the development of folk culture in the Yuan Dynasty.The basic weave of Jinduanzi was woven with supplementary wefts,and the ground warp was also used to bind the supplementary wefts.In the early days,the warps were arranged singlely,with the ground wefts raised on the back.Later,there was a double arrangement of warps and the ground wefts were no longer raised backwards.Thirdly,it was found through technical analysis that the structure of the lampas coming from Nasij has been integrated with that of various traditional Chinese weaves.As a result,the weaving technology of the traditional Jinduanzi changed,which is embodied in the use of special knots in local areas,and the weft of this kind of Jinduanzi often used twisted gold threads.The emergence of this special structure can be understood as the integration of Chinese and Western technologies and the innovation of weaving techniques.In addition,a number of Yuan Dynasty gold-woven robes with high cultural density have demonstrated the results of cultural blending from craftsmanship to patterns,and witnessed the social structure at that time.Through systematical and in-depth collecting,sorting and analyzing of the woven gold brocade,not only does the article study on the basis of various historical materials,but it also combines physical analysis.Taking the woven gold brocade as a carrier,it reveals the process of Chinese culture's development from unity to diversity,and also demonstrates the integration of Eastern and Western cultures.
NasijJinduanzilampassupplementary weftsresearch on classificationexchange and integration
国家科技期刊平台
NSTL
万方数据
