首页|1961-1967年中国外销丝绸技术特征与设计风格研究

1961-1967年中国外销丝绸技术特征与设计风格研究

扫码查看
1961-1967年中国外销丝绸处于贸易对象转变的初始阶段,中西方文化的交融为丝绸设计指明了新的发展方向.文章以历史文献、外销丝绸样本的实物及图像为研究基础,从技术角度对该时期外销丝绸产品进行分析.研究发现:工艺设备的更新换代为外销丝绸的推陈出新提供了技术支撑,设计人员从原料、丝线加工、组织结构、织造经密、投梭、后处理等生产工艺入手,推动外销丝绸产品技术与资销需求相适应,并在中西方审美文化的交流碰撞下,从纹样题材、色彩、布局、造型等多方面实现民族风格与外来风格的平衡与融合.
A study on the technical characteristics and design style of Chinese silk exported from 1961 to 1967
From 1961 to 1967,China's export silk experienced the initial shift of the focus of foreign trade,and continued to respond to the demand of the capitalist market under the urging of the severe economic situation,showing the era style of the integration of Chinese and Western aesthetic ideas.Starting from the technical and artistic point of view not only contributes to clarifying the overall style of export silk and exploring the influence of market demand and Chinese and Western culture on the formation and transformation of export silk style,but can also provide some supplement for the study of silk products exported in the early period of New China.Based on the research of historical documents,physical samples and images,this paper sorted out,summarized,compared and analyzed the technical and artistic characteristics of the exported silk,and combined the social situation at that time,drawing two major conclusions.Firstly,the process technology was constantly adapting to the export market to achieve the marketability of silk and meet the demand for foreign exchange.To produce silk fabrics that conform to the aesthetic appearance of the market and improve product quality,silk technology and equipment were being constantly innovated and enriched;to reduce the consumption limit of silk fabrics in the export market,wide-width looms were widely used.In the actual weaving process,under the influence of the international market trend,the use of chemical fiber raw materials was improved,and the fabric structure was matched with processing technologies such as warp printing and twisting to achieve a special appearance style.The high warp density was also a response to the pursuit of delicate and freehand patterns for export silk.However,it still showed the adherence to the national style,such as changing the weft color several times to maintain the traditional Chinese color style,and combining weaving with embroidery,using traditional flower digging techniques to realize the excavation and modernization of traditional crafts.Second,based on national culture and combined with foreign ideas,the art style of Chinese and Western aesthetic culture fusion was presented.In terms of subject matter,the designers tried to draw inspiration from national art.In terms of color,the traditional way of color and color matching absorbed the Western concept of color harmony,and did not emphasize the strong visual contrast effect.In terms of layout and modeling,traditional skeleton and external modeling existed harmoniously in the same pattern.In the creation of China's export silk,in addition to being market-oriented,the inheritance of national culture was given the same status,showing the dual pursuit of commodity and cultural value of export silk.Through the analysis of samples and images of Chinese exported silk from 1961 to 1967,this paper systematically discusses the design ideas and style characteristics of silk,and studies the timely adjustment of exported silk under the circumstances of market changes and the interaction of Chinese and Western culture,which provides some ideas for the study of exported silk styles in the early days of the founding of New China,so as to contribute to the innovative design of Chinese silk products.

China's export silkprocess technologypattern designmarket demandChinese and Western culture

李依婷、苏淼、鲁佳亮、陈百超

展开 >

浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程学院(国际丝绸学院),杭州 310018

浙江理工大学国际丝绸与丝绸之路研究中心,杭州 310018

中国丝绸博物馆,杭州 310002

中国外销丝绸 工艺技术 纹样设计 市场需求 中西方文化

国家重点研发计划课题项目浙江省文物保护专项项目

2019YFC15213012021016

2024

丝绸
浙江理工大学 中国丝绸协会 中国纺织信息中心

丝绸

CSTPCD北大核心
影响因子:0.567
ISSN:1001-7003
年,卷(期):2024.61(8)