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北朝对波对凤鸟纹绮绵"风帽"探析

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"风帽"是魏晋南北朝时期鲜卑人主要佩戴的一种包裹头部、垂裙系带的帽式,具有鲜明的民族特色和时代特征.文章以北京服装学院民族服饰博物馆收藏的北朝对波对凤鸟纹绮绵"风帽"为主要研究对象,从文献、图像及实物资料出发,对其族属、穿着者身份、年代、形制的时代特征等方面进行分析.研究得出:此件"风帽"为北朝后期的吐谷浑贵族男性穿着,所属年代上限在北魏洛阳时期,下限在隋唐之际.这件珍贵的文物结构与已知同类文物均不相同,展示了一种北魏孝文帝汉化后上狭下阔、帽屋尖小、帽屋帽裙分离的独特"风帽"形制,为这一时期的"风帽"研究提供了重要的实物参照.
A study on the Qi floss-filled"Fengmao"with symmetric wave and phoenix patterns from the Northern Dynasties
"Fengmao"is a type of hat mainly worn by the Xianbei people during the Wei,Jin,Southern and Northern Dynasties.It wraps around the head,featuring straps and drapes,and holds distinct ethnic and historical characteristics.The term"Fengmao"is coined by the academic community today due to its design of wrapping around the head with the hat body and draping over the shoulders and back,effectively shielding against wind and cold.Previous research on"Fengmao"has been limited by the scarcity of related cultural relics,primarily focusing on document and image analysis.However,the Ethnic Costume Museum of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology houses a rare specimen:a Qi floss-filled"Fengmao"with symmetric wave and phoenix patterns from the Northern Dynasties.With a unique shape and structure,it provides a valuable physical artifact for research on the"Fengmao"of the Northern Dynasties.This article centered on the research of"Fengmao"specimen from the Northern Dynasties collected by the Ethnic Costume Museum of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology.Based on historical documents,images,and physical materials,this article conducted research and analysis on the ethnic affiliation,wearer identity,era,and stylistic characteristics of the era.The article concluded with three main points.First,it is speculated that this"Fengmao"was worn by a male nobleman from the Tuyuhun region in the late Northern Dynasties,based on the evidence on the collection site,historical background,and seal writing style.Second,by using typological methods to summarize the physical and image data of"Fengmao"from the Northern Dynasties to the Sui and Tang Dynasties,it was confirmed that the relative age of the"Fengmao"collected by the Ethnic Costume Museum is between the Luoyang period of Northern Wei and the Sui and Tang Dynasties,and that it is a precious physical specimen of"Fengmao"in the later period of the Northern Dynasties.Third,compared to other known"Fengmao"objects of the same type from the Northern Dynasties to the Sui and Tang Dynasties,the"Fengmao"of the Northern Dynasties collected by the Ethnic Costume Museum has unique features,such as a narrow upper and wide lower part,a small pointed crown,a separable structure between the hat body and the drape,pleats at the back of the hat body in a zigzag fashion and a type of back tie sewn together at the root and suffixed on the back of the hat body.It shows a transitional state between the Pingcheng period of the Northern Wei and the Sui and Tang Dynasties,providing important physical reference for the study of"Fengmao"during this period.On the basis of previous documents and image research on the"Fengmao"of the Northern Dynasties,this article first addressed the nomenclature of the"Fengmao",and confirmed the connection between the name and the actual object.Then,using cultural relics information,the article conducted a physical analysis on the"Fengmao"from the Northern Dynasties collected by the Ethnic Costume Museum through data measurement and 1∶1 size restoration,showcasing its shape and structural characteristics.Finally,through the mutual verification of documents,images,and physical evidence,the article explored the age and ethnicity of this"Fengmao"from the Northern Dynasties,and analyzed the era characteristics in its stylistic characteristics in depth.

"Fengmao"the Northern DynastiesXianbei hatTuyuhunheadgearshape and structuretypology

张沐旸、田辉、高丹丹

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北京服装学院民族服饰博物馆,北京 100029

"风帽" 北朝 鲜卑帽 吐谷浑 首服 形制 类型学

北京市属高校分类发展—北京服装学院新兴交叉学科平台建设项目教育部人文社会科学青年基金项目北京服装学院服务国家特殊需求"中国传统服饰文化抢救传承与设计创新"博士人才培养项目

11000024T00000307387123YJC760026NHFZ20240096

2024

丝绸
浙江理工大学 中国丝绸协会 中国纺织信息中心

丝绸

CSTPCD北大核心
影响因子:0.567
ISSN:1001-7003
年,卷(期):2024.61(8)