Traceability and variety characteristics analysis of Hangzhou satin
Hangzhou satin refers to the satin products that originated in the Hangzhou region.Hangzhou satin is one of the most local textiles in Hangzhou,and,along with Hangzhou gauze,is recognized as a representative of Hangzhou silk,collectively known as"Suzhou silk and Hangzhou satin".In 2023,it was rated as a provincial level intangible cultural heritage of Zhejiang province,and the inheritance and innovation of Hangzhou satin have since ushered in new development opportunities.This article aims to provide cultural and case support for the preservation and innovation of Hangzhou satin,and to enrich research on Zhejiang silk culture and products.This paper defined the varieties of Hangzhou satin based on the origin and development of Hangzhou satin,and summarized the artistic and technical beauty characteristics of Hangzhou satin through the analysis of the weave structure,appearance effect and raw materials of Hangzhou satin products,so as to explore the historical and cultural value of Hangzhou satin.The results show that Hangzhou satin was first produced during the Song Dynasty,became a separate variety in the Ming Dynasty and developed more new varieties of products in the Qing Dynasty and modern times,such as Keli satin damask,rayon soft satin and antique brocade;Hangzhou satin,mainly composed of jacquard on satin ground,is divided into plain satin,jacquard satin and photograph-like jacquard satin.The jacquard satin fall into three categories:single layer jacquard,filling-backed jacquard and double jacquard.In the contemporary era of fabric digital design,Hangzhou satin refers to the satin fabric produced in Hangzhou with satin and sateen weave or satin change,which is divided into clear ground(where satin and sateen weaves occupy three-quarters of the surface area),full ground(where three quarters of the floral area is occupied by satin and sateen weaves)and mixed ground(where flower and ground satin and sateen weave accounts for three-quarters of the visual surface area of the fabric).There are two styles of Hangzhou satin patterns:traditional Chinese style expressing meaning with pictures and Western three-dimensional and realistic styles,mainly featuring seasonal flowers,persimmon top pattern,and dragon and phoenix patterns.The color schemes are divided into traditional Chinese and Hangzhou regional palettes,predominantly featuring Hangzhou blue,light-colored,and red.Hangzhou satin products are distinguished for their smooth surface,bright luster,and fine weave.This article traces the origin,development history,variety identification,and characteristic analysis of Hangzhou satin,offering insights into the cultural preservation and innovative development of Hangzhou satin products.The authors will continue to conduct technological innovation research on Hangzhou satin and strive to regain its former splendor.
万方数据
维普
