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汉服运动的初步成功与未来走向

Initial successes and future directions of the Hanfu Movement

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21世纪初在中国兴起的汉服运动,是中国服饰领域截至目前所发生的规模最大、持续时间最长的实践性社会文化活动,现在它已经取得了初步的成功,并对当代中国的社会及文化产生了深远的影响.文章对汉服运动的基本理念和流派进行归纳,并以此为基础,进一步探讨汉服运动在当代中国究竟取得了哪些成功,它对中国社会及文化产生了哪些影响,汉服运动发展到当下又有哪些新的动态和问题,以及它在将来可能会是一个怎样的发展走向等问题.研究认为,汉服运动未来的最大贡献,将是融入正在形成之中的"新中式生活方式",且成为其重要的组成部分.
Since the beginning of the 21st century,Chinese society has embarked on a comprehensive cultural renaissance.Alongside the burgeoning movement for the protection of China's large-scale intangible cultural heritage,there has also been a revival of the Hanfu Movement aimed at reviving traditional Han clothing and reconstructing the national attire of the Chinese people.The Hanfu Movement,which has lasted for more than 20 years,has not only had a profound impact on the field of apparel industry but also on the clothing lives of the general public.The article aims to summarize the basic concepts and schools of thought within the Hanfu Movement,and based on this,to further inquire into the achievements of the Hanfu Movement in contemporary China,its new dynamics,the challenges it faces,and the potential future development trends.This article is based on the author's continuous observation of the Hanfu Movement for more than a decade.The research methods include necessary literature research,participatory observational field surveys at Hanfu events,in-depth interviews with core members of Hanfu societies and elite figures in the Hanfu Movement,as well as academic dialogues with experts and scholars in the field of apparel studies.The article concludes that a unique national attire concept and several different schools of thought have emerged within the Hanfu Movement,including the ceremonial attire theory,everyday attire theory,and reformist theory.Despite the internal disagreements within the Hanfu Movement,preliminary success has been achieved through the continuous efforts of Hanfu enthusiasts.This judgment is based on the increasing popularity of Hanfu as"the traditional attire of the Han ethnic group"in contemporary Chinese society and its widespread recognition.Additionally,certain values of the Hanfu Movement have been accepted and acknowledged by mainstream Chinese culture.However,the Hanfu Movement still faces some challenges,including the lack of consensus on the basic form of Hanfu,the difficulty in innovating the standardized Hanfu event model,and the fact that Hanfu societies still exist in a subcultural form.Currently,the"image"of Hanfu enthusiasts is becoming increasingly personalized,and as a result,their everyday practice of wearing Hanfu will drive the Hanfu Movement towards diversification,fashion,and integration into daily life in the future.Considering the potential impact of the Hanfu Movement on the clothing lives of the general public,the article believes that the future contribution of the Hanfu Movement may be to integrate into the emerging"new Chinese lifestyle"and become an important part of it.This article provides the first demonstration of the preliminary success of the Hanfu Movement in contemporary China and presents corresponding evidence.Currently,much of the research on the Hanfu Movement focuses on perspectives such as national attire or cultural consciousness,while this article introduces a new perspective of understanding the Hanfu Movement from the perspective of clothing life.As a prospect for the future,further exploration should be made into the position of Hanfu in the clothing lives of the Chinese people,so as to encourage the tangible implementation of the achievements of the Hanfu Movement.

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周星

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神奈川大学历史民俗资料学研究科,日本横滨221-8686

汉服 汉服运动 服饰生活 新中式 生活方式

2024

丝绸
浙江理工大学 中国丝绸协会 中国纺织信息中心

丝绸

CSTPCD北大核心
影响因子:0.567
ISSN:1001-7003
年,卷(期):2024.61(9)