The influence of fabric properties on the wrinkling pattern of A-line skirts in sitting position
Wearing smoothness is one of the key factors affecting the appearance of clothing.The smooth appearance of clothing can not only show the texture and grade of clothing,but also improve the overall image and temperament of the wearer.The objective test and evaluation of smoothness is very important to the optimization of clothing design and the rational selection of materials,so it has been the focus of research in the field of textile testing.At present,the research of smoothness mainly focuses on the evaluation of flatness after washing and sewing,and pays little attention to the wrinkling of clothing during daily wearing.However,the wearing smoothness is more important than other kinds of smoothness in a sense,as the wrinkling of the dress directly affects the appearance of the clothing while the clothing can be worn after ironing,and the flattening effect of the stitches can also be improved by improving the equipment and the skills of the sewing personnel.In addition,in the analysis of the factors affecting the smoothness of the fabric,most of the studies focus on the influence of core wire types and spinning methods on the smoothness of fabrics,whereas there is a lack of in-depth research on the relationship between the fabric properties and the wrinkle patterns of clothing.As a typical representative of professional bottoms,the A-line skirt has extremely high requirements for appearance smoothness and aesthetics due to the wearing occasion,but due to its well-fitting design,it is easy to form folds during activities.In view of the practical problems faced in the wearing process,this paper takes the A-line skirt as the research object.Due to the three-dimensional spatial distribution of clothing wrinkles,it is difficult to reproduce its true shape as the conventional two-dimensional image processing technology does not contain spatial information,while the three-dimensional laser scanning technology can quickly and accurately obtain the three-dimensional coordinates of the surface of the measured object,so as to capture the true shape of wrinkles.Therefore,this paper used 3D scanning technology to extract wrinkles formed on A-line skirts in sitting position,and established a series of new indexes for smoothness evaluation from four aspects:wrinkle area,wrinkle type,wrinkle size and wrinkle sharpness.The difference of fold shape among different fabrics was compared by single factor analysis of variance,and the relationship between fabric properties and wrinkle shape index was explored by correlation analysis.The multidimensional evaluation index can describe the real shape effect of wrinkling in a more comprehensive way,and the correlation analysis with fabric properties can better grasp the essence,internal connection and influencing factors of wrinkling formation.The experimental results show that the wrinkling patterns of A-line skirts formed in sitting position are different,and they can be divided into simple strip pleats and complex Y pleats,Z pleats,ring pleats and X-shaped pleats according to types.Among complex pleats,Y pleats are the most common,followed by Z pleats.Ring pleats,X pleats and compound pleats usually only appear in cotton fabrics.There is a significant difference in wrinkle formation between fabrics with different components,that is,the wrinkle effect of the fabric can be predicted by the composition.Specifically,cotton fabrics have the largest wrinkle area,complex wrinkle ratio and wrinkle sharpness,and the smallest wrinkle width;the wrinkles of hemp fabrics are gentler than those of cotton ones,the number of wrinkles is less,and the area of wrinkles is slightly smaller;polyester,wool,hemp fabrics have wide wrinkles;polyester and wool have gentle wrinkles;the wrinkles of regenerated fibers are numerous and complex,and the creases are obvious;silk fabrics have simple and neat wrinkles.The results of correlation analysis show more clearly the correlation between the physical and mechanical properties of fabrics and each wrinkle shape index.The larger the shear stiffness of the fabric,and the larger the wrinkle area,the more complex the formation of wrinkles is;the crease area formed by the fabric with good crease recovery is small;the higher the warp and weft density and the larger the warp and weft wrinkle recovery angle,the easier it is to form neat and fine folds;thick fabrics with large flexural stiffness are easy to form wide and flat wrinkles;fabrics with small square meter mass,small warp and weft bending stiffness and small wrinkle recovery angle are easy to form sharp folds.Three-dimensional scanning technology provides a new way to extract the three-dimensional wrinkle,so that the wrinkle can show its more real shape.The research results will help guide the reasonable selection of clothing materials,improve the quality of clothing,provide strong support for the development of virtual display technology of clothing,and enhance the authenticity and accuracy of display.
A-line skirtfabric propertieswrinkled formthree-dimensional scanningone-way analysis of variance
万方数据
维普
