Wool is a kind of natural protein fiber with excellent characteristics such as fullness of hand and excellent warmth retention.Its products belong to high-grade textiles and are favored by consumers at home and abroad.However,due to the unique scale layer structure on the surface of wool fibers,products thereof are prone to felting during processing,washing and use,which seriously affects the wearability of the fabric.Therefore,the problem of shrink-proofing has always been one of the key research issues in the field of wool spinning.At present,most of the shrink-proof wool products on the market are obtained by chlorination.The chlorination method has low cost and good shrink-proof effect,but the process of this method will produce adsorbable organic halide(AOX),which brings serious environmental pollution problems.Protease anti-shrinkage treatment is an ecological anti-shrinkage processing technology that has been mainly studied at present.It has the advantages of mild and safe reaction conditions and easy degradation of waste liquid.However,most of the enzymatic shrink-proofing uses proteases from microorganisms and animals.These proteases enter the fiber through the gap of wool scales during the shrink-proof finishing process,and hydrolyze the CMC layer and the cortex layer at the same time,so that the internal cortex structure of the wool fiber is rapidly disintegrated,resulting in a significant reduction in fiber strength.The bromelain is a thiol protease derived from plants,and its effect on wool tends to be"hydrolysis mode".Its hydrolysis object is mainly keratin of wool scale layer,which will not lead to"rotten core"phenomenon.Therefore,it has little damage to the mechanical properties of wool.To solve the problem of heavy pollution of chlorination method and great damage of wool fibers caused by animal protease,the anti-felting finishing of wool fabrics was carried out by the combination of bromelain and pretreatment.The pretreatment used a self-made pretreatment agent A,which is a sulfinate.It can decompose hyposulfite with strong reducibility in hot alkali solution to destroy the disulfide bond of the fiber,so as to achieve the purpose of loosening the protein chain segment for subsequent bromelain treatment.In this study,the optimum treatment temperature and time of pretreatment agent A were first investigated,and then the effect of the mass fraction of pretreatment agent A on the anti-shrinkage effect of the fabric in the pretreatment-bromelain two-bath finishing was investigated.Finally,scanning electron microscopy(SEM),surface energy spectrum(EDS)and other test methods were used to analyze the action mode of pretreatment agent A and bromelain on wool fibers and the performance changed before and after fabric treatment.The results show that bromelain can effectively improve the anti-felting performance of wool fabrics on the basis of pretreatment.The finished fabric has a felting rate of 5.29％,which meets the Woolmark Company's machine-washable standard(felting rate＜6％),and the strength loss rate is only 4.10％.In addition,it has good wettability and dyeing properties.A series of characterization test results prove that bromelain has a good degradation effect on wool scale layer,but it only has a weak hydrolysis effect on the fiber interior,so as to reduce the felting rate of wool fabrics and control the strength loss rate at a small level.In this study,the self-made pretreatment agent A and bromelain were combined to treat wool fabrics in two baths.The pretreatment agent A and bromelain complemented each other,and the anti-felting finishing with low strength loss rate was realized.The anti-shrinkage process of pretreatment-bromelain two-bath finishing has the advantages of ecological and environmental protection,simple process and good finishing effect.It provides a new way for the biological anti-shrinkage of wool fabrics and has the possibility of being put into actual production.
wool fabricspretreatmentbromelainanti-felting finishinglow strength loss
维普
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