A lot of textiles are unearthed from the Yingpan site.The climate of Yingpan is dry,so the colors of the unearthed textiles are well preserved,which provides reliable samples for dye identification.These textiles provide important evidence of cultural and technical exchange on the Silk Road during the Eastern Han and Jin Dynasties.It is of great significance to clarify the spread and development of textile dyes,silk fiber raw materials and weaving techniques on the ancient Silk Road in China,which not only enriches the information database of ancient textile cultural relics,but also provides scientific basis for the subsequent protection,restoration and display of cultural relics.Eight silk samples from the Yingpan site in Xinjiang were selected for study.On the one hand,the dye and fiber species were identified.On the other hand,the places of origin of these fabrics were analyzed according to the dye and fiber varieties and the characteristics of yarns and fabrics.High performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry(HPLC-MS)was used to identify dye varieties,and fiber micro-morphological analysis and proteomics methods were used to identify silk fiber varieties.By identifying the varieties of dyes and fibers of the eight samples,and combining the identification results with the analysis of the structural characteristics of yams and fabrics,three major conclusions were drawn.Firstly,there are mainly two types of dyes for silk fabrics unearthed from the Yingpan site in this study:the main colorants detected in the red dye are alizarin and purpurin,indicating that the source of the dye is Rubia tinctorum;the presence of berberine as the main ingredient in the yellow dye,with small amounts of palmatine and pharmacophorine,suggests that the source is Phellodendron chinense.Rubia tinctorum is native in Xinjiang,while Phellodendron chinense is grown in Sichuan,Hunan and Hubei provinces.The sources of these two dyes exhibit distinct regional characteristics,which provides important reference for place origin analysis.Secondly,in this study,the fiber materials of fabrics unearthed from the Yingpan site are all mulberry silk,being either domestic silkworm(Bombyx mori)silk or wild mulberry silkworm(Bombyx mandarina)silk.The domestic silkworm silk is used for the simple single-layer textiles,such as spun silk,twill and patterned silk with simple weaves.The cross-section of the microscopic morphology of the used silk is a regular triangle,and the longitudinal morphology of the silk fiber is straight,which is consistent with the morphology of modern silk.The wild mulberry silkworm silk is used together with domesticated silkworm silk for more complex textiles such as Jin-tape and embroidery pillows.The cross-sectional shapes of silk fibers used for red yams in Jin-tape(95BYYM14:9)and embroidered pillow(99BYYM2:5)are slightly rounded at one end and pointed at the other end,which are consistent with the morphology of modern wild mulberry silk.The protein identification of the red yarn also reveals that it has the characteristic proteins of the wild mulberry silkworm silk.Both domestic silkworm silk and wild mulberry silkworm silk are used on Jin-tape and embroidery pillow,which provides evidence for the use of wild mulberry silk in Xinjiang area,and also reflects the richness and diversity of silk textiles unearthed in Xinjiang.Thirdly,it is speculated that the red yarns of sample Jin-tape(95BYYM14:9)and embroidery pillow(99BYYM2:5)in this study are dyed with Rubia tinctorum in Xinjiang,while the yellow yarns are made of domestic silkworm silk from Sichuan,Hunan and Hubei,and they are likely to be dyed with Phellodendron amurense locally,and then imported into Xinjiang for weaving.This suggests that silk technology in the Han and Jin Dynasties was transmitted not only through finished products but also through semi-finished products,accompanied by improvements in textile techniques.The article uses micronondestructive analysis test techniques to scientifically identify the dyes and fibers of some fabrics unearthed from the Yingpan site in Xinjiang,and combines the characteristics of the yams and fabrics from multiple angles to infer the place of weaving.It provides new evidence and support for the study of the transmission of textile materials,technologies and culture along the Silk Road in Xinjiang and the research on the development of textile techniques.
the Yingpan sitedyefiberPhellodendron chinenseRubia tinctorumBombyx moriBombyx mandarina
维普
万方数据
