The Ming Dynasty was the most popular and prosperous period in the culture of scarves in ancient Chinese society.During this period,the types of scarves evolved and alienated in a large number,and there were diverse presentations in terms of structure,shape and expression.The wearing groups also included almost all social classes of men,among whom the scholar group was the most prominent.The popular fashion of this kind of scarf also makes the Ming Dynasty retain more historical materials related to scarvs,and Ru Shui Jin Pu is an rare ancient book that integrates the clear drawing and text annotation of the Ming Dynasty's scarvs.The book is divided into four parts:inscription,catalogue,map and postscript.In the part of the map,32 types of clothes in the Ming Dynasty are clearly drawn.The large number and variety are important historical materials for studying the fashion of the Ming Dynasty's scarvs,and also contribute to the study of the culture of headdress in the Ming Dynasty.Based on this,this paper first combed the texts and images contained in Ru Shui Jin Pu,and then used the literature research method to study the background of the book and the related text annotations and extended contents of the scarves.Secondly,it summarized the structure and modeling characteristics,expression methods and decorative techniques of the scarves by combining the mutual proof method with the comparative analysis method.Finally,it analyzed the era mapping and objective limitations of the popular fashion of scarves in the Ming Dynasty presented by Ru Shui Jin Pu by the art archaeology method.The research shows that Ru Shui Jin Pu was written by Zhu Shuxun,a son of the imperial clan during the Chongzhen period of the late Ming Dynasty.The 32 types of scarvs in the book are either inherited from the predecessors or designed by the wearers.As for the first 13 types of scarves,the source,purpose,wearers and shape description of the scarves are recorded in detail.As for the latter 19 types of scarves,the book mainly describes the metophor,material selection and production techniques of the scarves.The scarves are divided into four types in terms of basic structure:front and back drape ones,front drape ones,back drape ones and zero drape ones.The scarves are divided into four types in terms of shape:flat-top ones,square-top ones,arc-top ones and dome ones.The scarves are divided into four types in terms of expression of the creation:quasi-physical ones,quasi-word ones,associative ones and other others.The decorative techniques used are rich and varied,such as changing the shape of the scarves with concrete or abstract shapes or decorating them with painting,pasting,embroidery and other methods.The change of the shape reflects the evolution of the popular fashion of scarves in different periods.The integration of the scarves compiled by Ru Shui Jin Pu intergrates the styles of the early and late Ming Dynasty,reflecting the two aesthetic styles of retro and novelty,and recording the aesthetic characteristics of the times behind the popular performance of the scarves in the Ming Dynasty.The compilation thought embodies the author's admiration for the previous generation of celebrities and the yearning for gentleman's character.At the same time,combined with the creation background and compilation content of this book,we can also see the aesthetic fashion mapping of the times in the scarves of the literati in the late Ming Dynasty under the disorder of social hierarchy,such as the pursuit of retro,the pursuit of fantastic and the worship of immortality,as well as the limitations of the volume and information accuracy of the scarves caused by subjective choice and objective vision.
the Ming DynastyheaddressRu Shui Jin Puimagescharacteristics of scarvesera mappingscholar fashion
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