The 1950s-1960s was one of the peak periods for the development and design of new varieties and patterns of silk in China,and the design of velvet fabrics for export also made great progress in this period.This study takes the"New Varieties"series of silk samples printed by Shanghai Silk Import and Export Company as the basic clue,and applies the research methods of literature,iconography,and craftsmanship to explore and research around the design concepts,design methods,and craft characteristics of different types of velvet fabrics.The velvet silk fabric refers to the use of fabric structure or special techniques to form fuzz or loops on the surface of the fabric.Chinese velvet fabrics matured in the Yuan Dynasty,and Zhangzhou silk,Zhangrong was popular in the early Ming Dynasty and even spread to Japan.After the late Ming and early Qing Dynasties,the production technology of Zhangzhou velvet was introduced to the Jiangsu and Zhejiang areas,and the varieties derived from Nanjing and Suzhou,such as Zhangzhou velvet and Zhangzhou satin,also made the development of velvet fabrics to reach their heyday.After the 1950s and 1960s,the velvet fabrics became one of the unique advantages of Shanghai's export varieties.Shanghai designers borrowed the traditional weaving method of Zhangrong and weaved various new varieties of double-layer jacquard velvet.The products were mainly supplied domestically and to former Soviet Union,Eastern Europe,and Southeast Asian markets,and gained considerable foreign exchange and good economic benefits for China.From the general classification of the structure,weaving methods,and post-treatment of velvet fabrics,they are mainly divided into three categories:plain velvet fabrics,jacquard velvet fabrics,and special velvet fabrics.There are a total of 32 velvet fabric samples appearing in the"New Variety",including 6 plain velvet fabrics and 15 jacquard velvet fabrics.Five pieces are printed,cut,and embossed on plain velvet fabrics,as well as six pieces of electrostatic flocking fabrics.Taking the historical situation as the fundamental investigation basis,this article mainly selects typical varieties from the above types,analyzes and explores the achievements and design features of their velvet process,pattern design,artistic features,etc.,so as to fill in some of the missing aspects of the velvet fabrics in the study of the history of modern silk design.Research has shown that in the 1950s and 1960s,velvet fabrics,as a branch of silk products,extensively introduced new foreign weaving technologies on the basis of traditional velvet fabrics,and successfully developed various new varieties and patterns suitable for export market demand.While making positive contributions to export earnings,they also promoted the design progress of velvet fabrics at that time.Of course,if compared to the significant increase in variety and color design and development of products such as silk,satin and crepe during the same period,they are still clearly at a disadvantage.From the design characteristics of velvet fabrics discussed in this article,there are both the combination of traditional culture and technological innovation,the combination of innovative concepts and new fibers,and the innovation of absorbing excellent foreign cultures from the perspective of export.From both the perspective of variety development and pattern innovation,their design achievements have played a positive role in promoting the overall development of silk design at this stage.
1950s and 1960sfor exportvelvet fabricdesign conceptdesign methodologyprocess characteristics
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