首页|孙中山"国货改良服装构想"与中山装

孙中山"国货改良服装构想"与中山装

Sun Yat-sen's"domestic clothing improvement concept"and the Zhongshan suit

扫码查看
"国货改良服装构想"是孙中山民主革命生涯中,立足民生主义与发展民族纺织业的政治主张,它催生了中山装而非"三民五权"等释义是历史事实.文章基于孙中山生前著述和相关官方文献的考证,就该构想的主要观点和形成过程进行分析.研究表明,"国货改良服装构想"的实施吸取了北洋政府草创《服制案》违背国情全盘西化的失败教训,关注重点经历了从适应国体的礼服制式,到惠及民生常服与维护国家主权军服的转变,其关乎民族生死存亡的现实意义远大于政治目的,中山装正是在这些命运多舛的实践中呼之欲出的.
"Providing clothing for the people"was an important goal in Sun Yat-sen's democratic revolutionary career.Especially after the Xinhai Revolution,he proposed the"domestic clothing improvement concept"based on the theoretical exploration of the people's livelihood and the practical need to develop the national textile industry.This concept held great guiding significance for the development of modern Chinese clothing culture and was intricately connected to the creation of the two types of Zhongshan suits.This article primarily studies Sun Yat-sen's writings,such as Letter from the President to the National Products Maintenance Association and The Three Principles of the People.It examines the historical background,events,and official documents related to the"domestic clothing improvement concept",analyzing the formation of its main ideas and the evolution of its content.The analysis clarifies the process by which this concept evolved from initial theoretical explorations during the early Republic of China,to the lessons learned from the failure of the Beiyang Government's Uniform Regulations,and finally to the theoretical refinement achieved through the cooperation between the Kuomintang and the Communist Party,which led to the enhancement of the"New Three Principles of the People".The study reveals that the"domestic clothing improvement concept"was a constantly refined political proposition by Sun Yat-sen,responding to the objective realities of the modern democratic revolutionary environment in China.Its development underwent two stages:the first stage was the formulation of its principles.At the founding of the Republic of China,Sun Yat-sen,aiming to preserve national goods,proposed the"broad adoption of Western systems with improvements"and the concept that"materials should be sourced domestically",advocating for an orderly change of clothing among the populace.However,due to the restorationist ideology of the remnants of the feudal imperial system,the warlord government did not adopt this plan and instead introduced the fully Westernized Uniform Regulations modeled after Japan's Meiji Restoration.The superficial Westernization,driven by lingering feudal influences,was short-lived,and its failure led to Sun Yat-sen's further reflection.The second stage was the theoretical enhancement.Drawing lessons from the failure of the Beiyang Uniform Regulations,Sun Yat-sen,using the first cooperation between the Kuomintang and the Communist Party to support workers and peasants in the Northern Expedition,refined the goals and content of the"domestic clothing improvement concept"under the"New Three Principles of the People".He shifted the focus of clothing system construction from emphasizing national ceremonial dress in the early Republic to daily wear benefiting people's livelihoods and military uniforms safeguarding national sovereignty.This provided a theoretical guide for revitalizing the national textile industry and constructing a republican clothing system,fully demonstrating that the significance of the"domestic clothing improvement concept"for the nation's survival far outweighed its political propositions—a reality shaped by harsh circumstances.Notably,this concept proposed a framework for jointly establishing civilian and military uniforms for the Republic,laying the foundation for the 1929 Nanjing National Government's promulgation of the Clothing System Ordinance and The Army's Service and Ceremonial Uniforms Ordinance,which allowed for the parallel existence of the two styles of Zhongshan suits:the stand-collar,three-pocket civil official Zhongshan suit and the lapel,four-pocket military official Zhongshan suit.Through comprehensive analysis of historical documents,this article explains the core idea of Sun Yat-sen's political propositions serving people's livelihoods,and their profound impact on the institutional construction of the two types of Zhongshan suits.It further demonstrates that the creation of the Zhongshan suit was driven by more than just the interpretation of concepts such as the"Three Principles of the People"and the"Five Powers Constitution"but by historical realities.

Sun Yat-senZhongshan suitdomestic clothing improvement conceptpeople's livelihoodismuniform regulationsnational textile

朱博伟、刘瑞璞

展开 >

北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京 100029

孙中山 中山装 国货改良服装构想 民生主义 服制案 民族纺织

2024

丝绸
浙江理工大学 中国丝绸协会 中国纺织信息中心

丝绸

CSTPCD北大核心
影响因子:0.567
ISSN:1001-7003
年,卷(期):2024.61(12)