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厦门白城海滩地貌季节性变化的沉积物粒度响应

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根据厦门白城海滩2022-2023 年连续4 个季节的海滩剖面形态测量和表层沉积物粒度分析,探讨非典型砂泥复合型海滩地貌的季节性变化规律及其主控因素,尝试揭示海滩表层沉积物粒度结构对海滩地貌季节变化的响应过程.研究结果表明:由 2022 年秋季至冬季、再到 2023 年春季,白城海滩上风向强烈侵蚀、下风向淤积,受厦门环岛顺时针向的沿岸输沙作用控制;且随着季风转向和波浪减弱,沿岸输沙减弱,海滩侵蚀强度降低.而由 2023 年春季至夏季,沿岸输沙进一步减弱,但白城海滩各剖面均显示不同程度的侵蚀,滩砂流失加剧,与夏季强降水引起的滩砂横向顺坡向下搬运有关,并伴随着大量游客的涌入加剧了海滩的侵蚀.白城海滩侵蚀强度强-弱-强的季节阶段性变化与沿岸输沙-横向输沙的季节性转变有关,海滩表层沉积物粒度也随之产生明显的联动变化.白城海滩在秋-冬-春-夏的季节时间尺度上,剖面坡度和沉积物粒径数值均呈现先下降后上升的变化趋势,海滩侵蚀强度大、沉积物粒径增加、滩面变陡,主要与沿岸输沙-横向输沙的季节性转变过程有关.研究结果对于深入理解砂泥复合型海滩动力地貌过程具有重要意义.
Responses of sediment grain size to seasonal variation of Baicheng beach morphology in Xiamen,China
Aiming to investigate seasonal variations of sandy-muddy transitional beach geomorphology and the key controlling factors on Baicheng beach of Xiamen in 2022-2023,the responses of surface sediment grain-size to the beach morphological variations were studied.Results showed that Baicheng beach was strongly eroded windward and accreted in the other section from autumn to spring when it was mainly controlled by the clockwise longshore sedi-ment transport surrounded Xiamen Island.In view of monsoon wind direction changes and the weakening of the waves,the longshore sediment transport could be reduced clearly in a state of weak beach erosion.From spring to summer in 2023,the longshore sediment transport weakened further,but all profiles of Baicheng beach showed dif-ferent erosions with intensified sediment loss related to the seaward transport of sediments caused by the strong pre-cipitation in summer.Meanwhile,tourist activities have also intensified the beach erosion.Then,these seasonal changes showing strong-weak-strong erosion intensity on Baicheng beach was related to the seasonal transfer of long-shore and cross-shore sediment transport,and subsequently,the grain size of surface sediment presented some im-mediate changes.From autumn to the following summer,the profile slope and sediment grain-size of Baicheng beach decreased at first and then increased,i.e.,the higher erosion intensity the steeper beach slope coupling with sediment grain-size increasing.It is mainly related to the seasonal transfer from longshore and cross-shore sediment transport and their interactions.The observations at Baicheng beach have provided some new findings for a better understanding of sandy-muddy transitional beach morphodynamics.

marine geologybeach profilegrain-size characteristicseasonal variationsensitive grain-size com-ponentsandy-muddy transitional beach

郑威乐、曹超、蔡锋、戚洪帅、何岩雨、李元、刘根、赵绍华

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福州大学先进制造学院,福建 泉州 362251

自然资源部第三海洋研究所海洋与海岸地质研究室,福建 厦门 361005

自然资源部海洋生态保护修复重点实验室,福建 厦门 361005

福建省海洋生态保护与修复重点实验室,福建 厦门 361005

河海大学水灾害防御全国重点实验室,江苏 南京 210024

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海洋地质学 海滩剖面 粒度特征 季节性变化 敏感粒度组分 砂泥复合型海滩

厦门市自然科学基金国家自然科学基金国家自然科学基金国家自然科学基金自然资源部第三海洋研究所基本科研业务费自然资源部第三海洋研究所基本科研业务费

3502Z2022709042206171U22A2058542076058海三科2022017海三科2023023

2024

10.3969/J.ISSN.2095-4972.20231219001

应用海洋学学报
国家海洋局第三海洋研究所 中国海洋学会 福建省海洋学会

应用海洋学学报

CSTPCD北大核心
影响因子：0.526
ISSN：2095-4972
年,卷(期)：2024.43(3)