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民国服制法令中女子礼服形与制的转向

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文章以民国历次服制法令中的女子礼服为研究对象,基于服制法令中的文本及图示内容,梳理归纳女子礼服的形制内容及发展规律,对女子礼服反映的礼制转向进行探讨。研究表明,民国服制法令中女子礼服的制定和发展过程曲折,兼有变革和保守的双重特性,服装形制呈现出传统裙褂式、裙袄式与袍式、改良袍式的递进规律,反映了从繁文缛节到因陋就简,从男尊女卑到初现男女平权意识,从封闭保守到倾向开放审美的礼制转向。
The Shape and System of Women's Dresses in the Uniform Laws of the Republic of China(1912-1949)
Taking women's dresses in the various uniform laws of the Republic of China(1912-1949)as the research object,based on the text and graphic content in the uniform laws,the shape content and development law of women's dresses are sorted out,and the etiquette system reflected in women's dresses is discussed.The results show that the formulation and development process of women's dresses in the Republic of China(1912-1949)uniform laws and regulations is tortuous,with the dual characteristics of change and conservatism,and the clothing shape presents the progressive law of traditional skirt style,skirt jacket style and robe style,and improved robe style,reflecting the change from red tape to simplicity,from male superiority and female inferiority to the emergence of equal rights consciousness between men and women,and from closed conservatism to a tendency towards open aesthetics.

costume provisionsceremonial costumeshapeetiquette

李奇、刘卫

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北京服装学院,北京 100105

服制法令 礼服 形制 礼制

北京服装学院研究生科研创新项目2023年研究生科研创新项目市属高校分类发展-北京服装学院"服装学"新兴交叉学科平台建设项目

X2023-02811000024T000003073871

2024

西部皮革
四川省皮革行业协会 四川省皮革学会 四川省皮革研究所

西部皮革

影响因子:0.293
ISSN:1671-1602
年,卷(期):2024.46(3)
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