摘要
文章以宋辽金时期墓葬壁画中的男性孝子为主要研究对象,探究男性孝子所穿着的服饰类别.研究发现,宋辽金时期男性孝子服饰分为首服与身服,首服分别是束发巾(带)、幅巾、幞头、东坡帽等,身服主要是圆领袍服、交领袍服和裤等.其中幞头始于隋唐,发展至宋也不断涌现出新的形制,出现了具有典型宋代特征的东坡帽,以及具有辽金代表性的幅巾.在宋辽金时期墓葬壁画二十四孝图中有官员和平民两种身份的人物形象,日常生活的平民大都束髻,着圆领或交领长袍,而在田间劳作的平民则身着短袍;官员主要佩戴幞头,身着圆领大袖长袍,在腰间装饰玉革带.二十四孝图将服饰与其他元素相结合,成功塑造了孝子人物的忠孝形象.
Abstract
This article primarily focuses on the male filial sons depicted in the tomb murals of the Song,Liao,and Jin dynasties,investigating the categories of attire worn by these filial sons.The study reveals that the attire of male filial sons during the Song,Liao,and Jin dynasties can be classified into headwear and bodywear.The headwear includes hairbands,headscarves,headwraps,and Dongpo hats,while the bodywear mainly consists of round-collared robes,cross-collared robes,and trousers.Among these,the headwrap originated in the Sui and Tang dynasties and continued to evolve through the Song dynasty,giving rise to the distinctive Dongpo hat characteristic of the Song period,as well as the representative headscarf of the Liao and Jin dynasties.In the tomb murals of the Song,Liao,and Jin dynasties,the images of individuals are depicted in two social roles:officials and commoners.In their daily lives,commoners mostly tied their hair up,wore round-collared or cross-collared long robes,while those working in the fields wore short robes.Officials primarily wore headwraps and donned round-collared,wide-sleeved long robes,adorned with jade and leather belts around the waist.The Twenty-Four Filial Exemplars integrate attire with other elements,successfully shaping the loyal and filial image of the filial son characters.
维普
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