油橄榄叶提取物/光甘草定纳米乳的经皮渗透性能及美白功效评价
Evaluation of Transdermal Penetration Properties and Whitening Efficacy of OLE/GLA Nanoemulsions
张宝江 1罗丹 2王曦 2李泽巧 1赵金枫 1刘卫3
作者信息
- 1. 四川泽润嘉美化妆品有限公司,四川成都 610000
- 2. 武汉百思凯瑞生物科技有限公司,湖北武汉 430075;华中科技大学国家纳米药物工程技术研究中心,湖北武汉 430075
- 3. 华中科技大学国家纳米药物工程技术研究中心,湖北武汉 430075;华中科技大学生命科学与技术学院,湖北武汉 430074
- 折叠
摘要
采用高压均质技术制备了共载油橄榄叶提取物和光甘草定的纳米乳(OLE/GLA-NEs),研究OLE/GLA-NEs的经皮渗透性能及美白功效.通过皮肤渗透试验,发现将光甘草定包装在纳米乳中,其皮肤吸收和储存量优于游离光甘草定.细胞美白试验结果表明,光甘草定质量浓度为20 μg/mL时,OLE/GLA-NEs相较于Free OLE/GLA,酪氨酸酶活性抑制率达到 78.51%,黑色素相对含量仅为 16.48%,差异具有非常显著性意义(P＜0.01).3D黑色素皮肤模型研究结果表明,OLE/GLA-NEs相较于油橄榄叶提取物和光甘草定的游离活性物(Free OLE/GLA),L*值提升率为6.11%,黑色素含量抑制率为 12.90%,差异具有显著性意义(P＜0.05).人体临床试验结果表明,使用含有质量分数5%OLE/GLA-NEs的精华28 d后,志愿者皮肤的光泽度、ITA°值明显增高,皮肤黑色素含量及色斑总面积明显下降,色斑变淡,皮肤白皙有光泽.因此,OLE/GLA-NEs对皮肤有显著的美白功效,作为化妆品美白功效原料具有良好的应用前景.
Abstract
Nanoemulsion carriers containing OLE/GLA were prepared by high-pressure homogenization technique,and the transdermal penetration properties and whitening efficacy of OLE/GLA-NEs were investigated.Transdermal permeation studies showed that the nanoemulsions encapsulated OLE/GLA had good skin permeability and skin storage capacity compared with the free component.The results of the cell whitening assay showed that at a concentration of 20 μg/mL of glabridin,the tyrosinase activity inhibition rate of OLE/GLA-NEs reached 78.51%,and the relative content of melanin was only 16.48%compared with free OLE/GLA,and the difference was highly significant(P＜0.01).The results of the 3D melanin skin modeling study showed that OLE/GLA-NEs showed a 6.11%enhancement of L* value and a 12.90%inhibition of melanin content compared with free OLE/GLA,and the difference was significant(P＜0.05).The results of clinical trials showed that after 28 days of using the serum containing 5%(in mass fraction)OLE/GLA-NEs,the melanin content and total area of pigmentation of the skin increased significantly,the L* value and ITA° of the skin increased significantly,the pigmentation became lighter,and the skin became fair and radiant.It is shown that the OLE/GLA-NEs have good whitening effect on the skin and have a good application prospect in the whitening cosmetic market.
关键词
油橄榄叶提取物/光甘草定/纳米乳/经皮渗透/美白功效Key words
Olea europea leaf extract/glabridin/nanoemulsion/transdermal penetration/whitening efficacy引用本文复制引用
出版年
2024
NETL
NSTL
万方数据