Transdermal Permeation of Two Typical Whitening Agents in Cosmetics
The skin permeations of niacinamide and phenylethyl resorcinol in different cosmetic(toner,essence,cream)were investigated by using the Franz-type diffusion experiments in full thickness porcine skin in vitro infinite dose.Quantitative analyses of whitening agents in the receiving liquid and skin were performed by high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry.Meanwhile,the whitening efficacy of cosmetics was evaluated on the human body.The results showed that the permeability of niacinamide in all cosmetics exceeded 60%,and the penetration of phenylethyl resorcinol was lower than 30%.The transdermal absorption ability of niacinamide was significantly better than that of phenylethyl resorcinol.The penetration of the whitening agent in the cream was the lowest in the three samples.In addition,phenylethyl resorcinol had strong lipid solubility and a higher ratio of skin retention rate to cumulative penetration,indicating that it was more likely to stay in the skin.The evaluation results of human efficacy showed that all three types of cosmetic had whitening effects,indicating that there was not a simple positive correlation between the additive amount and efficacy.
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