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原生态视域下抚仙湖"抗浪鱼"的饮食记忆

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明代有大量的汉族移民转徙到云南,作为"瘴药"流传的抚仙湖"鲌鲜鱼"受到了朝野的普遍关注。在《康熙字典》收入"䆲䆡鱼"这个固定概念前,"海蛆""石穴鱼""洞鱼"及"糠郎鱼""蜣蜋鱼""蜣螂鱼""康郎鱼""漮䆡鱼""鱇䱶鱼"等读音相近的概念都是"抗浪鱼"的代名词。除少量鲜鱼被用于烹制菜肴外,绝大多数都被制成了小鱼干待售。清代以赵士麟为代表的滇籍仕宦阶层扭转了"䆲䆡鱼"的整体评价,并将其独特性不厌其烦地增添到华夏饮食的记忆空间。民国时期,试制罐头的构想被提到了议事日程,最终实现了标准化的企业生产。到 20 世纪 90 年代,抗浪鱼消费仍扮演着极其重要的角色。
The Dietary Memory of"Kanglang Fish"in Fuxian Lake from the Perspective of Original Ecology
During the Ming Dynasty(AD.1368-1644),many Han people migrated to Yunnan,and the"fresh fish"from Fuxian Lake,which was passed down as a"miasma cure"received widespread attention from the government as well as the public.Before the fixed concept of"Kanglang fish"entered into the Kangxi Dictionary,concepts with similar pronunciations such as"Sea Maggot","Rock Cave Fish","Cave Fish","Kanglang Fish","Qianglang Fish",and other pronunciations with little difference were synonymous with"Kanglang Fish"("Anti Wave Fish").With a small amount of fresh fish for actual dishes,most of them are made into dried salted fish.In the Qing Dynasty,the Yunnan official class represented by Zhao Shilin reversed the overall evaluation of"Kanglang Fish"and tirelessly added its uniqueness to the memory space of Chinese cuisine.During the Republic of China era(1911-1949),the idea of trial production of canned"Kanglang Fish"was put on the agenda.By the 1990s,"Kanglang Fish"consumption still played an extremely important role.

Yunnan specialtyFuxian LakeKanglang fishlocal knowledgedietary memory

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楚雄师范学院 学报编辑部,云南 楚雄 675000

原生态 抚仙湖 抗浪鱼 传统制法 饮食记忆

2024

玉溪师范学院学报
玉溪师范学院

玉溪师范学院学报

影响因子:0.144
ISSN:1009-9506
年,卷(期):2024.40(2)