摘要
杭罗是罗的一种,是丝绸大家族中十分重要的分支,采用"水织法"织造而成.本文对浙纺标T/ZFB 0045-2023《杭罗》进行标准解读,标准包括杭罗的术语和定义、工艺、要求(安全性能要求、内在质量要求、外观质量要求、开剪拼匹和标疵放尺的规定)、试验方法、检验规则、标志、包装、运输和贮存.将T/ZFB 0045-2023《杭罗》与FZ/T 43059-2022《桑蚕丝罗织物》指标对比,提升了断裂强力、撕破强力、耐皂洗色牢度沾色等级指标,根据杭罗织物的特点调整了水洗尺寸变化率的指标,提升了外观疵点的优等品指标,并规定了杭罗织物纰裂程度的测试方法.通过解读T/ZFB 0045-2023《杭罗》,可指导企业科学使用新标准,促进浙江纺织非遗项目的活态传承.
Abstract
Hangzhou luo is a type of luo,a very important branch of the silk family,woven using the"water weaving method".This article provides an interpretation of the Zhejiang textile standard T/ZFB 0045-2023"Hangzhou luo",which includes the terminol-ogy and definitions,processes,requirements(safety performance requirements,internal quality requirements,appearance quality requirements,provisions for cutting,splicing,and marking defects),test methods,inspection rules,marking,packaging,transporta-tion,and storage of Hangzhou luo.Compared the indicators of T/ZFB 0045-2023"Hangzhou luo"with FZ/T 43059-2022"Mul-berry Silk and Luo Fabric",the indicators of breaking strength,tearing strength,and color fastness to soap washing and staining were improved.Based on the characteristics of Hangzhou luo fabric,the indicators of washing size change rate were adjusted,and the superior product indicators of appearance defects were improved.The testing method for the degree of slippage of Hangzhou luo fabric was also specified.By interpreting T/ZFB 0045-2023"Hangzhou luo",it can guide enterprises to scientifically use new standards and promote the active inheritance of Zhejiang textile intangible cultural heritage projects.
基金项目
浙江省基础公益研究计划(LGC22E030001)
浙江省市场监督管理局雏鹰计划(CY2022224)
NETL
NSTL
万方数据