首页|技艺中视觉呈现:剑河苗族红绣服饰"母花"数纱绣针法研究

技艺中视觉呈现:剑河苗族红绣服饰"母花"数纱绣针法研究

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剑河苗族红绣服饰纹样的视觉呈现是隐性的"母花"数纱绣针法外显的结果."母花"是剑河苗族红绣女性进行服饰纹样装饰时所使用的针法模仿范本,其针法有别于一般的针法,有着双重的技艺呈现内容:一为"母花"本体的纹样和针法;二为运用"母花"纹样衍生出的服饰纹样和针法.本文以田野调研为基础,对剑河苗族红绣服饰"母花"数纱绣针法进行了较为深入的解读,探讨了红绣服饰纹样产生视觉差异的成因,总结出剑河苗族红绣女性以运用和传承"母花"纹样为手段,在技艺的视觉呈现中完成了自我身份的建构和集体记忆的延续.
Visual Presentation in Technique:A Study of"MuHua"Yarn-Counting Embroidery Stitches of Jianhe Miao Red Embroidered Attire
The visual presentation of Jianhe Miao red embroidered attire pattern is the explicit result of the hidden"Muhua"yarn counting embroidery stitch.The"Muhua"is a model for stitch imitation used by Jianhe Miao red embroidery women for the dec-oration of clothing patterns.Its stitch is different from ordinary stitches and has two technical contents:one is the pattern and stitch of the"Muhua"itself and the other is the use of"Muhua"pattern derived from the clothing pattern and stitch.Based on field research,the article provides a comprehensive and in-depth interpretation of the"Muhua"embroidery needlework of Jianhe Miao red embro-idery costumes,discusses the causes of visual differences in red embroidery costumes,and concludes that Jianhe Miao red embro-idery women use and pass on the"Muhua"pattern as a means to complete the construction of self-identity and the continuation of collective memory in the visual presentation of their skills.

Jianhe Miaored embroideryMuhuaclothing patternsyarn-counting embroidery stitch

曹寒娟、周梦

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中央民族大学,北京 100081

剑河苗族 红绣 母花纹样 服饰纹样 数纱绣针法

2024

浙江纺织服装职业技术学院学报
浙江纺织服装职业技术学院

浙江纺织服装职业技术学院学报

影响因子:0.245
ISSN:1674-2346
年,卷(期):2024.23(4)