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图像学视域下贵州布依族贴布绣背扇纹样研究

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绣花背扇作为布依族服饰的核心组成部分,是布依族民间妇女对子女祝福的寄托,是世代传承的延续,是母系文化价值观的体现.背扇的纹样受当地生活习俗、民族信仰等诸多因素的影响,表现出浓郁的地域特色.本文采用实物分析和文献调查的研究方法,从前图像志描述、图像志分析和图像学阐释3个不同层面出发,系统剖析布依族背扇中贴布绣纹样的题材与造型、构图与布局、色彩与材料、针法与工艺的特征,以挖掘其丰富文化内涵,深入、全面地解读布依族贴布绣背扇纹样,为布依族民族服饰文化研究提供参考.
A Study of Guizhou Buyi Patchwork Embroidery Patterns from the Viewpoint of Iconography
The embroidered back fan,as a core part of the Buyi costume,is the sustenance of the Buyi folk women's blessing to their children,the continuation of the generation inheritance,and the embodiment of the value of matrilineal culture.The pattern of the back fan is influenced by many factors such as local living customs and national beliefs,showing strong regional character-istics.This paper adopts the research methods of physical analysis and literature survey,and starts from three different levels,namely,description from the former pictorial journal,analysis from the former pictorial journal,and interpretation from the pictorial journal,to systematically analyze the characteristics of the subject matter and modeling,composition and layout,color and material,and stitching and craftsmanship of the patchwork embroidery patterns of the Buyi back fan,so as to excavate its rich cultural connotations,and to deeply and comprehensively interpret the patchwork embroidery patterns of the Buyi back fan to pro-vide references to the research on the Buyi national costume culture.

Buyipatchwork embroidery techniqueback fanpatterniconographic perspective

林书怡、刘重嵘、彭琳

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武汉纺织大学服装学院,湖北武汉 430073

布依族 贴布绣技艺 背扇 纹样 图像学视域

2024

浙江纺织服装职业技术学院学报
浙江纺织服装职业技术学院

浙江纺织服装职业技术学院学报

影响因子:0.245
ISSN:1674-2346
年,卷(期):2024.23(4)