首页|Modeling wave climates and wave energy attenuation in marsh terrace environments in the northern Gulf of Mexico
Modeling wave climates and wave energy attenuation in marsh terrace environments in the northern Gulf of Mexico
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NSTL
Elsevier
? 2022Marsh terracing is a coastal restoration technique that has been implemented in Louisiana and Texas for almost 30 years. Marsh terraces are segmented ridges of soil built in inland coastal ponds for the objectives of creating new marsh, disrupting fetch, and dissipating wind-driven wave energy, which causes marsh erosion. Despite widespread implementation, no numerical modeling studies have been conducted to understand the effect of terraces on wave climate in marsh environments. The objectives of this study were to: 1) simulate wave climates in marsh terrace fields using the Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) model and evaluate the agreement between modeled and observed wave conditions and 2) assess the effectiveness of marsh terraces at reducing significant wave height by comparing wave climates in terraced sites with hypothetical unterraced sites. The SWAN model was used to simulate wind-waves at two terrace fields in coastal Louisiana. Model validation was performed using data collected with in situ wave instruments and wind data measured by NOAA stations located 25 km to the east and 62 km to the northeast of the study area. Results from this study modeled and measured small (0.03–0.14 m) and high–frequency waves (0.80–1.29 s) in the marsh terrace fields. Model validation revealed agreement between modeled and observed data, particularly for significant wave height and direction. Additionally, a comparison of wave climates in terraced and unterraced marsh environments indicated an average significant wave height reduction of 45% (min:18%, max: 84%) when terraces were present. Overall, the model was able to evaluate wave climates in marsh terrace fields and assess the effectiveness of this restoration technique in reducing significant wave height. The model's performance in this low energy and complex environment (shallow water, nonlinear shoreline, marsh fragmentated) is encouraging given the lack of research assessing wave parameters in marsh terrace environments.
NSTL
Elsevier
