摘要
化妆品是一类受众甚广的商品,消费者对其需求随社会发展而不断提高.在毒理学等生命科学研究方法的框架内,安全性测试可以排除化妆品对皮肤等组织造成不良反应的风险,功效性测试有助于明晰化妆品中各种活性成分对皮肤的作用机制,能够加强行业的科学监管,防止虚假宣传.因此,规范其安全性和有效性对于人民身心安全及消费市场健康发展均具有重要意义.本文简要汇总了中国和欧盟关于化妆品的标准文件,其中安全性评估包括光毒性、皮肤刺激、皮肤腐蚀和皮肤致敏,功效性评价包括抗氧化、抗衰除皱、保湿和美白,并总结了常用的方法和模型,探讨了化妆品安全性和功效测试方法的发展趋势.本文旨在为皮肤学和毒理学基础研究提供参考,为挖掘更多活性成分的新功效、新机制提供思路,促进替代方法的研究与应用,为建立更有应用潜力的研究方法提供依据.
Abstract
Cosmetics are a major part of modern life,and consumer demand for better cosmetics continues to increase with the development of society.Using life science research methods,including toxicology,safety testing can eliminate the risks of adverse reactions to skin and other tissues caused by cosmetics.Efficacy testing helps to elucidate the mechanisms of various active ingredients in cosmetics on the skin,strengthen scientific supervision in the industry,and prevent false advertising.Therefore,regulating cosmetics'safety and efficacy is essential for the safety of the users and the healthy development of the consumer market.This article briefly summarizes the standard documents regarding cosmetics in the European Union and China.The safety testing includes phototoxici-ty,skin irritation,skin corrosion,and skin sensitization,while the efficacy testing includes antioxidant,anti-aging and anti-wrinkle,moisturizing,and whitening.This paper also summarizes commonly used cosmetic safety models,explores the development trends of cosmetic safety,and discusses efficacy testing methods.Additionally,this paper aims to provide reference for basic research in dermatology and toxicology,provide ideas for exploring new effica-cy and mechanisms of more active ingredients,promote the research and application of alternative methods,and provide a basis for establishing more promising research methods.
基金项目
国家自然科学基金(22076216)
国家重点基础研究发展计划(973计划)(2018YFA0901100)
NETL
NSTL
万方数据