Numerical simulation and spatiotemporal analysis of waves at Yongle Atoll,Xisha Islands based on SWAN modeling
Fine-grained wave data are the basis for studying the coral distribution and topography of islands and reefs.Currently,there is a lack of long time series fine wave simulations carried out in the interior of coral reefs and on smaller scales,which is insufficient to obtain the fine wave characteristics of the island and reef areas.This research took Yongle Atoll of Xisha Islands in the South China Sea as the study area,and carried out a high-resolution refined island wave simulation of Yongle Atoll from 2017 to 2021 based on the self-nested wave simulation of the SWAN model and resolution-16 m topographic data.The study analyzed the fine spatial distribution characteristics of the effective wave heights,wave directions,and the average wave energy in the study area based on geomorphic units orientations and islands and reefs.The results show that the correlation coefficient between modeled and measured wave data was 0.94,and P＜0.05.The five-year average significant wave heights and energy of Yongle Atoll showed a"U"-shape through the months,and the average wave frequency in the NE direction was 20％.There were spatial differences in the wave characteristics of different geomorphic unites,and the maximum wave height and maximum energy were the highest in deep lagoons and at reef slopes.The average wave heights and energy of the deep lagoon,point reef,and the reef slope were higher than those of the shallow lagoon and the reef flat.Among the eight directions,average energy was the highest in the south,followed by the southwest.Among the different islands and reefs,the southern reef had the highest average energy.The attenuation of energy from the reef slope to the reef flat was higher than 30％in all directions,and the attenuation in the southern part of the reef was up to 72.7％.This study provides methods and a theoretical support for the exploration of coral distribution patterns,coral reef protection and restoration,and coastal engineering construction.
South China SeaSWANwave characteristicscoral reefgeomorphology
万方数据
维普
