首页|明宁靖王夫人吴氏墓出土团窠双龙戏珠纹暗花缎褶裙形制考

明宁靖王夫人吴氏墓出土团窠双龙戏珠纹暗花缎褶裙形制考

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对明代吴氏墓出土团窠双龙戏珠纹暗花缎褶裙形制进行研究推考,探讨明代命妇褶裙形制特征.运用实验考古学、文献图像查阅、个案分析与多元类比相结合的方法,对该裙的出土背景、面料、形制、裙片拼缝方式、褶裥制式及数量、裙与上衣组配方式等方面进行深入分析.结果表明:团窠双龙戏珠纹暗花缎褶裙为两片一腰样式的侧褶裙,裙片共用七幅料拼缝,裙两侧捏"四对四"抱合对褶,为明代较为典型的褶裙制式,具有明显的传承性;该裙与墓中出土短上衣组配,体现了弘治年间江南地区命妇着装的礼仪性与时尚性,代表了明中期命妇典型的生活着装配伍.
Inferential inquiry of"The pleated skirt decorated with two dragons frolicking with a pearl"excavated from the grave of Wu,wife of Seignior Ning Jing in the Ming dynasty
Inferential inquiry of"The pleated skirt decorated with two dragons frolicking with a pearl"excavated from the grave of Wu in the Ming dynasty was conducted,to explore the shape characteristics of the Ming aristocrat women's pleated skirts.With the research methods of ex-perimental archaeology,document image review,case analysis and multiple analogies,the skirt unearthed background,skirt fabric,shape,piece stitching method,style and number of skirt pleat,and the matching mode of the skirt and blouse were analyzed in this paper.The results show that the shirt is the one with two pieces and one waist style,stitched with seven pieces of material,and the pleats on both sides of the skirt and the number of pleats is common with"four on four".It is a typical pleated skirt system in Ming and has obvious inheritance.The skirt is worn with the short jacket unearthed in the tomb,which reflects the etiquette and fashion of the aristocrat women's dress in the Jiangnan area during the reign of Hongzhi,and represents the typical life dress of the aristocrat women in the middle period of Ming dynasty.

Seignior of the Ming dynastywife of Seignior Ning JingMrs.Wu's tombthe plea-ted skirtstructure

高丹丹、王亚蓉

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北京服装学院民族服饰博物馆,北京 100029

中国社会科学院考古研究所,北京 100101

明代藩王 宁靖王夫人 吴氏墓 褶裙 形制

教育部人文社会科学青年基金项目教育部人文社会科学研究规划基金项目市属高校分类发展——北京服装学院"服装学"新兴交叉学科平台建设项目

23YJC76002621YJA76002011000024T000003073871

2024

纺织高校基础科学学报
西安工程大学 全国纺织教育学会

纺织高校基础科学学报

CSTPCD
影响因子:0.339
ISSN:1006-8341
年,卷(期):2024.37(1)
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