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湘西红苗女性服饰形制流变及成因探析

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针对湘西红苗女性服饰的形制流变和影响因素等问题,采取三重证据和比较研究法,将图像、文献、实物进行互证,梳理不同时期湘西红苗女性的服装、发饰特征.结果表明:从形制流变看,清末民初时期为湘西红苗女性服饰形制向客家汉族服饰形制融合的转折点,表现为上衣直领对襟的逐渐消失与大襟右衽形制的多样性,下装形制由裙改裤,头饰造型由椎髻排钗到系统化的头帕式.从流变成因看,官方政策的介入、教育感化的融合和商业市场的冲击,影响了湘西红苗女性的生活习俗和审美观念.这一流变的动机展露了湘西苗汉文化的交往、交流、交融,也为构建中国传统服饰文化研究提供参考.
An analysis of the changes in shape and formation of Xiangxi Red Miao women's clothing
Aiming at the problems of the shape change process and the cause influence of Xiangxi Red Miao women's clothing,this article adopted a tripartite evidence and comparative research method,in which images,literature,and physical objects were inter-corroborated.The clothing and hairstyles of Xiangxi Red Miao women from different periods were analyzed.The results show that from the perspective of the change of shape system stage,the late Qing Dynasty and early Republic period is the turning point of the integration of the shape of female dress from Xiangxi Red Miao to Hakka Han nationality,which is manifested as the gradual disappearance of the straight collar front and the diversity of the front right skirt,the shape of the bottom from skirt to pants,and the shape of the headwear from the hairpin to the head.From the perspective of the causes of change,the intervention of official policies,the integration of education and influence and the impact of commercial market have affected the life customs and aesthetic concepts of red Miao women in western Hunan.This motive reveals the communication,exchange and blending of Miao and Han cultures in western Hunan,and also provides an important reference value for the study of constructing traditional Chinese dress culture.

Xiangxi Red Seedlingwomen's clothingshapeheadwear

刘欢、王柯

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武汉纺织大学服装学院,湖北武汉 430073

湘西红苗 女性服饰 形制 头饰

国家社会科学基金冷门"绝学"和国别史等研究专项教育部人文社会科学研究项目

19VJX17421YJC760111

2024

纺织高校基础科学学报
西安工程大学 全国纺织教育学会

纺织高校基础科学学报

CSTPCD
影响因子:0.339
ISSN:1006-8341
年,卷(期):2024.37(2)
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